It was a balmy Sunday afternoon, and wine connoisseurs from across the country were at the al fresco space at the Westin Koregaon Park, Pune, for a blind tasting session. The ‘Wines of India’ event featured around 10 wineries from across the country. The counters showcased everything, from the Shiraz, Merlot and Cabernet to Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, right down to rose, dessert wines and sparkling wines, with wine lovers twirling their glasses, tasting wines and rating them on the basis of taste, aftertaste and bouquet.
Earlier, a glass of wine always meant the best Pinot or Sauvignon Blanc from the valleys of Loire or Australia and even South Africa. But in the recent past, there has been a subtle shift towards wines from Indian brands. The last decade witnessed a boom, with the quality of Indian made wines matching those of their counterparts, like Australian or South African.
Adrian Pinto, Senior Manager-Wines, Pernod Ricard India (P) Ltd, says, “Twenty years ago, the only wine India knew of was Goa port wine, which was not really wine. Grover’s launched initially and then Sula came along. Many years after that, there was a surge in Indian wines, and in 2002, many people started to set up wineries and the quality of wines went up. During this time, people started getting health-conscious. Drinking wine became fashionable. That was the start of the Indian wine market. Many farmers also got into the wine business and the amount of wine available increased — for instance, the wine market was growing at 30 per cent, and the wine being produced was 300 per cent. Farmers knew how to make wine, but didn’t really know how to sell it. There was a shake up in the industry followed by recession. Many farmers went under. From 2011 onwards, only serious players entered the wine business — those who rode out the rough weather. In the next few years, there will be a sea change in the industry,” he says.
The Indian wine market is going through a cycle, he points out. “It is the same cycle which Argentina, Chile and South Africa went through, where there was wine produced in bulk, the quality was low and then it all fell through and only the best emerged. We are on the cusp of the next wine revolution in Indian wines in terms of quality. There will be only serious players in the market and those who are concerned with quality. This is also because the Indian consumer has evolved. Though not everyone can tell the variety of wine that they are drinking, but they know the difference between good and bad wine; rather, they know what they like. So, just any wine won’t do any longer,” he points out.
Chinmaya Arjun Raja, the Founder and Curator for Tasting Pleasures, a national luxury membership based gastronomic programme, says that this competition among the brands can only lead to better quality Indian wines. “Now, there are so many Indian brands that offer quality wine. A week ago, Moet Hennessy of the LVMH group launched Chandon, their Indian sparkling wine. Sula has refurbished their line, adding a few varieties of sparkling wine. With so much competition, the quality of wines is only getting better,” he reaffirms.
Vikas Malik, Regional Director of Food & Beverage, for Starwood Hotels & Resorts, points out that wineries in India are on par with the western ones. “Wineries in India today produce some of the world’s best wines and while these go very well with the Indian palate, international travellers are also experimenting, they want to try the local wines. We therefore have an opportunity to work with the local wine fraternity to promote wines from India and this is one way of doing just that. The parameters are simple — taste, colour, look and after appeal,” he says.
Chinmaya Arjun Raja’s fascination with wine began through his passion for languages. He says, “I was associated with Alliance Francaise de Madras as President (Honorary) of the Managing Committee and I went to France initially in 1999. I had won a French singing competition and I had an opportunity to stay with a traditional French family in the Loire valley for a month and a half. That’s where my passion for wine started. Then, I started educating myself, wherever I went. Work took me to France many times, as well as parts of Europe and USA. I made it a point to visit wineries and even Napa Valley. Then, I set up the Wine Academy of India in 2009 and was its managing director.”
Chinmaya conducted the first wine tasting session in the city in 2005. “It had only people around 50 years of age,” he recalls. “But now, there has been quite a change. Many youngsters are a part of our club — some of them are in their late 20s or 30s. They are people who are well travelled and who want to learn about wine. Some of them also want to invest in wine. Of late, there has been a big leap in the sales of wine,” says the wine connoisseur. Adrian concurs. “I think the target market is 25 years old and upwards and urban Indians. More people are realising that if you could go out, you have to drink something good and healthy. Wine is a healthy alcoholic beverage,” he adds.
The poor availability of Indian wines in the city’s hotels is a cause for concern, says Chinmaya. “During the past two years, we couldn’t have Indian wines at popular hotels. But things may change soon. Grover’s and Sula are in the process of coming to Chennai. People want to have Indian wines and since Puducherry and Bengaluru aren’t too far away, it is easy to get a bottle of Indian wine. There are places where cheap French wine is sold for as much as a good Indian wine. Chennai has expats and people who enjoy drinking Indian wines. I have a few French friends, who came down and wanted to drink Indian wines,” he relates.
Abhay Kewadkar, chief wine maker and director, Four Seasons Wines, says that discriminating policies are a challenge for the industry. “The main challenges in India for the wine industry are very high taxes and duties, licensing fees and discriminatory inter-state policies. This results in very high consumer price, especially in on-premise,” he points out, adding that Indian consumers have their own preferences. “Indian consumers prefer Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc in white wine varietals and Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon in red wine varietals,” he reveals.
Adrian, who had earlier worked with Sula, says that education about wines also poses a challenge. “Wine is something that people are still getting used to. So there are wine tasting sessions to introduce people to wines. We have to educate the consumers. We have to educate the retailers on the correct way to store wine. We have to tell them not to keep the cases in the sun. So, there are various levels of education — from educating the farmers on the right way to grow grapes for wines right down to the consumer. The wine business is evolving and growing at a fast pace. More consumers are interested in educating themselves — wine tourism has grown and people, when they visit wineries, don’t realise that they are educated about wine,” he says.
Chinmaya adds that wine education is an integral part of his gastronomic venture. “Wine is a hobby and passion for me. I also train people on wines and share all the knowledge that I have gained through my travels and visits to wineries. Some of the members of our club are going to the Nashik valley soon to visit the wineries,” he concludes.
A glass of class
The popularity of wine in recent times is also due to the perception that it is classy to drink wine. “More women are now drinking wine also because it is healthier. Many articles have appeared on the Internet about wine appreciation as well as its health benefits. There are even apps educating people about wine. And, it has also become classy to drink wine. So a lot of youngsters are drawn to it,” says Chinmaya.
Global appeal
So, how do Indian wines fare internationally? Pretty well, says Abhay Kewadkar. “Indian cuisine is a big draw globally. This opens up a very natural exposure to the market for Indian wines. Only three or four wineries are exporting at the moment, but there is good awareness in countries like UK, France and Japan. USL has also been exporting the RITU range of wines to these countries, and the wines have been much appreciated by consumers and wine experts internationally. The awards won in international competitions have helped in increasing the popularity of Indian wines. Ritu and Four Seasons have been winning various awards in international wine competitions such as Decanter Asia Wine Awards, Cathay Pacific Hong Kong International Wine & Spirit Competition, Wine Style Asia Award, and many others,” he says. Adrian concurs. “Indians like to host people and cook for others. They are nostalgic about everything Indian, more so if they are not in the country. With the quality of Indian wines improving, Indians abroad are now proud to put a bottle of Indian wine on their table,” he reveals.
Best wines from India
At the blind tasting conducted at the ‘Wines of India’ soiree at the Westin Koregaon Park, Pune, the following wines were declared winners. These wines will feature in the hotel’s wine list across the country.
Varietal Winner
Chardonnay Reveilo Chardonnay Reserve
Chennin Blanc Nine Hills Chenin Blanc
Sauvignon Blanc Fratelli Sauvignon Blanc
Sparkling Zampa Soiree brut
Dessert Sula Late Harvest Chenin Blanc
Merlot Vallonné Merlot Reserve
Shiraz Turning Point Shiraz
Cabernet Sauvignon Reveilo Cabernet Sauvignon
Cabernet Blend Grovers La Reserva
Rose Nine Hills Rose
