Moula Ali, a gem on hilltop

Ibrahim Quli Qutb Shah later built a mosque and named it Moula Ali. Later an Ashoorkhana, a baradari (pavilion) and a naqqar khana (place for beating drums) were built during the Nizam’s time. The Nizams used to frequently visit the Moula Ali hill. During this time, the Moula Ali Kaman was built to welcome the Nizam and his troops. The Nizam spent time at the baradari. A kaleen (mattress) was also put on the rock stairs by the Nizam.

Riyaz Ali, a resident of Moula Ali says, “The Moula Ali dargah is visited by thousands on the birth celebrations of Moula Hazrat Ali and people from all faiths (though mostly Shia Muslims) and from all over the country come to take blessings at the dargah. In the olden days, a camp for the pilgrims used to be put up at the lake below. The lake is currently only a 10th of its original size and is shrinking each year due to illegal encroachment.”

Phikibee, a resident of Najaf in Iraq, had come to Moula Ali centuries ago after having a dream of taking care of the Moula Ali hill. Phikibee came to Moula Ali and stayed there until she died. She was buried just outside the dargah. She did not eat sugar and hence was called Phikibee by locals. As a mark of respect, people still offer sugarless preparations at her grave, Mr Riyaz Ali said.

Maula-Hazart Ali had many titles and one of them was “Mushkil ko Shah” meaning the deliverer from suffering. Anyone who has any suffering or anyone who needs help calls upon Moula Mushkil ko Shah for deliverance from sufferings and problems.

Diyanat Ali, a member of the Greater Hyderabad Adventure Club, said, “As a teenager, Moula Hazrat Ali was the strongest wrestler in Mecca and he was never defeated. He was also the finest swordsmen and he never lost a war. Many strongmen write the name of Ali on their workout equipment. Even military Generals write Ali’s name on their swords to attain victory. During his khilfath (rule), Hazrat Ali had people of all faiths in his government and he allowed practice and propagation of all faiths. He was a very just ruler and he took over as the fourth Khalifa when Mecca was in turmoil. He brought order to the place. Hazrat Ali was martyred while in prostration in prayer in Najaf.”

“People of all faiths frequent Moula Ali to pray and seek help when in problems. A mannat lock is put at the entrance, and after their problems are resolved, people return to the dargah to offer prayers and open the lock,” he said.

The 550 steps to the dargah are not very steep and one can cross all the five Kamans in less than 45 minutes. Trekkers can go up the hillside as Moula Ali has a rocky, undulating terrain. Several resting spots (similar to the ones shown in the movie Jodha Akbar) are there after the fourth Kaman.

The view at the fifth Kaman is magnificent: Gun Rock, Mahindra Hills and the Ammaguda Hill are visible. In fact, three quarter of the city is visble from up here.

There is also a special space for cooking, and some devotees stay back for days. Hazart Moula Ali Hill and Qadam-e-Rasool, the second hillock, do not have boulders, so they are preferred for recreation and climbing. However, the third hillock, commonly called Centenary, is preferred for bouldering. Rappelling is also done here as the spot is 200 feet above the ground.

Behind the dargah, there was once a pilgrims’ resting place, but it is now in ruins. The steps and the Kamans too are covered in graffiti. Zaheer Ahmed Khan, the present caretaker, said, “One big demand is a ramp to the hilltop. It had been proposed by the GHMC. The corporation had promised to build a ramp mainly for children and senior citizens. The GHMC officials came and took measurements and former Mayor Mohammed Majid Hussain had announced Rs 1.68 crores for the ramp. He had promised that it would be completed within 7 months. However, till date, not a single stone has been laid.”

“Most pilgrims face a lot of inconvenience while climbing. Moula Ali needs more sheds to accommodate people and extra lighting. We get Manjeera and borewell water, however, lighting is a problem,” he said. The GHMC authorities said the standing committee had agreed to construct the ramp at a cost of Rs 168.32 lakh in the first phase. The ramp will have a CC road of 6 m width along with the retaining wall. In the first phase, the ramp would start from Khushal Khan Kaman and go till Aashoorkhana, Azrath Abbas Neem Bada. The second phase requires a lot of technical assistance due to steep rocks. The works will begin soon.

On the right side of the main hill entrance, is the Ziyarat e-Ahle Quboor, the graveyard developed by an expat, and a beautiful resting place called Chandha Bai. One needs to take permission for entry here. Chandha Bai was a woman shaayer (poetess) and she spent her life writing poems on Moula Hazrat Ali. She used to sing the poems and had the patronage of the Nizams.

After the fourth Kaman is the Dargha of Hazrat Abbas, the son of Hazart Moula Ali and half-brother of Imam Hussain. He was the flag-bearer of Hussain's army was martyred during the Karabala war while trying to get water for imam Hussain's camp.

There is a small cave and a spring. Newly married couples bring the flowers exchanged during marriage rituals to the spring to seek blessings. Not everyone is allowed here.

“However, as there is a cluster of hills, a guide is needed to explain the place’s history,” he adds.

Sandeep Raj from the Save Our Rocks Society says, “The place is ideal of rock climbing and rappelling activities. Being a religious and heritage site, it needs to be well-protected and it must be kept in its original form without man-made features. A police tower that was recently put up is spoiling the aesthetic beauty of the place. Many climbers usually start with the Centenary rock. Moula Ali can become a hot-spot for tourism. In fact, the tourism department can add Moula Ali hill to its listings page.”

There is another hillock opposite the Moula Ali Hill, called the Qadam-e-Rasool, where a relic with impression of Prophet Mohamme’s feet is kept. Beside the Qadam-e-Rasool is Ashoorkhana Bargah Fatima Zahra, who was the daughter of the Prophet. There is a mosque before the second staircase at the main Moula Ali hill starts and it is named Qamargah after Qamar, a devotee of Hazrat Ali, who used to live there. He was buried outside the mosque.

The mosque is also known as Masjid Jinath as jinns were supposed to offer prayers here. People who have slept in the mosque have often found themselves moved outside the mosque. These days, no one dare stays at the mosque, said the locals.