Warp and weft of green, crimson and gold, intertwining into an ethnic statement — the Kanjeevaram sari has been a timeless heirloom, passed on from one generation to another. Down the centuries, the Kanjeevaram has marched along with changing mindsets and milieu, adapting to the times and still staying ‘cool’. On World Ethnic Day (June 19), we speak to Kanjeevaram revivalists on why the ethnic variety of sari can never go out of style.
Fashion designer Gaurang Shah is popular for his Kanjeevaram saris, often sported by actress Vidya Balan, who is the brand ambassador for World Ethnic Day. Gaurang said despite the popularity of Kanjeevaram saris, there is a need to reinvent the fabric. “I have revived the temple design on saris, with a huge border. The fabric is heavy silk, which makes the fabric soft. And, there’s pure zari made from gold or silver. I also used the organza yarn with silk borders in a traditional Kanjeevaram sari to give it a contemporary look We need to keep thinking of newer ways to present the Kanjeevaram,” he adds.
This designer, whose creations have been sported by A-listers like Kajal Aggarwal, Amala Paul, Shruti Haasan and Taapsee Pannu, pointed out that Kanjeevaram fabric has a unique quality. “The designs that can be woven in Kanjeevaram cannot be done in any other fabric. Going beyond the designs, the beautiful textures, intricacy of the weaves and the contrast they give and the depth of colour make the Kanjeevaram quite popular,” he says, adding that the Kanjeevaram sari will always hold a special place in our hearts and wardrobes. “And, we will work towards keeping it that way,” he adds.
Sujata Pai, who’s behind the brand Ambi, is known for using heirloom Kanjeevaram saris and giving it a makeover. “Kanjeevaram is such a beautiful fabric! And we should not let it die. So, I have many clients, who bring their heavy Kanjeevarams and the fabric is so versatile that we use it to create lehenga or other creations, so that youngsters can wear it more often. This way, we can keep the tradition of wearing Kanjeevarams alive,” she said.
Artist and revivalist, Rajini S. Balachandran, who runs Jari: The Sari Studio, chose the sari as her canvas. “The sari is the most iconic of any cultural motif that anyone could discover in India. And I thought, being an artist, the sari was like an artist’s canvas — it was rectangular and didn’t need any stitching. It had two parallel borders and a rectangle area pallu, which is the finale,” said Rajini, who works closely with weavers to create stunning Kanjeevaram saris.
Rajini also added that with a paradigm shift in the way fashion is perceived, the time is right for the Kanjeevaram sari to dazzle the world. “We live in a postmodern world, which is full of multiculturalism, diversity and inclusiveness. There is a new generation of fashion designers, who are now working with handloom and weavers. This is the right time to reinvent the Kanjeevaram sari, re-energise it and to think about it again and again and present it in a format that is suitable for youngsters. Change is the essence of any artistic endeavour. We cannot say Kanjeevaram has attained its peak and we don’t have to change. We must change and now, the world is ripe and right to accept the Kanjeevaram sari,” she
concluded.
