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A big monument of Islamic heritage

The ancient Big Mosque in Triplicane is constanly buzzing with activity during the month of Ramzan
Chennai: The magnificent minarets of the Big Mosque, Triplicane, and the sprawling land in front pulsate with life during the time of prayer. Seeing several thousand Muslims performing Namaz with perfect synchrony is a sight to behold. Being the holy month of Ramzan, this ancient mosque revs up activity all around. Some of the shops in this arterial area remain open till 3.30 am and people in the neighbourhood offer nombu kanji or fruits with glee to help those wind up their fast.
As its name signifies, the Big Mosque is one of the finest mosques in Chennai and it continues to attract Muslims from far-flung areas. Though there are few mosques built earlier than this, the Big Mosque in Triplicane or Walajah Big Mosque, has stood the test of time and is one of the most important monuments of Islamic heritage in the city. Perhaps, Nawab Muhammad Ali Walajah, Nawab of the Carnatic (1749-1795 AD) and his descendents who constructed the mosque had the forethought on the increasing need for more space in future.
The Prophet’s birthday is celebrated every year under the auspices of the Meelad Committee in these grounds. “Several Sindhi families, Hindus and Muslims in and around Triplicane wait outside the mosque to distribute the nombu kanji or fruits to those of us who emerge from the mosque after completing the fast,” says Sayed Rafi Uddin, who has been visiting this historic mosque for over two decades. “This kanji is special and found only in Tamil Nadu. Kanji is not offered in other parts of the country including Hyderabad,” he adds.
A striking feature of this mosque is the chronogram engraved in stone and fixed inside the western wall of the mosque by a non-Muslim, Rajah Makkan Lal “Khirad,” a Persian and Arabic scholar of repute. He was the private secretary to the Nawab. It is said that no other mosque in the world has a chronogram composed by a non-Muslim! A tomb of the great saint Maulana Abdul Ali Bahrul Uloom, a divine scholar during the Nawab Wallajah’s era, tombs of late Nawabs of the Carnatic, the Princes of Arcot and other eminent scholars and theologians are also found in the mosque. Interestingly, the Eid prayer timing has been the same - 10.00 am. since 1749 AD at this historic mosque, which is under the management of the Prince of Arcot Endowments and controlled by the present Prince of Arcot, Nawab Mohammed Abdul Aii - a direct descendant of Nawab Wallajah.
“Sunnis and those following the four Imams congregate here in large numbers” Thanveer Ahmed, IT professional, and Mohammed Yousuf, a hardware engineer, says. The local handmade Romani Semiya (vermicelli) adds to the flavour of Ramzan festival here, claims Syed. “There used to be a tram which stopped right in front of this mosque… that was a time. “I have been here all these years offering prayers at this mosque which has become part of my life,” Abdul Khader, aged 70 years, says as he walks towards the granite structure of the mosque where neither wood nor steel has been used in the construction. It has two gigantic minarets at the front extending towards the open sky.
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