Pleats — the schoolgirl signature — is getting the high fashion treatment this season, and being dressed up (razzle-dazzle miniskirt), dressed down (slouchy jumper) and all in between.
“Pleats have moved far beyond the realm of schoolgirl uniforms, if the fashion-forward looks on the worldwide runways are any indication. There’s a pleat to please everyone. Ranging from precise knife pleats for a preppy vibe to petite folds or accordion with feminine detailing, traces of metallic and shine for those with a more ladylike sensibility, pleats are everywhere,” shares fashion designer Nachiket Barve and adds, “However, pleats are advanced now. So you have to be really clever to pull them off. While the colour palette can be anything, be careful to keep the silhouette clean and not overload yourself with angles and layers. Avoid geometric patterns as they look warped. Stick to florals or all over damask patterns. Even liberty prints look great as do dots.”
Designer Anuradha Ramam, on the other hand, cautions, “The pleats have the power to flatter — when it’s done right. The hem length is important when it comes to pleated skirts and dresses, so choose wisely. Shorter is okay when you’re young and have Bambi legs. But obviously, if you go the wrong way, you could end up in a full awkward schoolgirl moment. Also keep in mind that cloth tends to move when you walk. It’s something that’s feminine, romantic and catches the breeze. Hovering on or just below the knee has a beautiful Gatsby kind of sophistication and if you get the one that’s fluid, it kind of skims over and creates an ideal silhouette. Team it with something neat and uncluttered like a top or simple T-shirt while sparkly or sheer variations should have the luxe and polish factor amped up with a structured, gently oversized blazer, or an enveloping jumper.”
That delicate floatiness, however, needs a grounded base. Designer Shruti Sancheti advises steering clear of mincing kitten-heel sandals in favour of a chunky platform or a sharp-toed stiletto. “You need something that makes it urban. And unless you’re 5ft-10in., a little height doesn’t hurt. To bring a professional vibe to your pleats, pair the season’s accordion pleated, flowing dress with a crisp white button down blouse, peep toe pumps and a thick obi belt. The belt brings additional structure to the pleats while sleek and minimalist accessories ensure that your style is a success in the boardroom. But if you don’t want to experiment with heels, then go for luxe sneakers.”
Pleats are also undoubtedly high maintenance. Ashna Kalra for ASH Haute Couture explains, “Pleats don’t react well to water. A pleat in a natural fibre when exposed to any sort of moisture, has the propensity to come out. In humid climates or if the forecast is rain, I would advise against wearing pleats made of 100% silk or pleats that are only steamed in and not sewn. Neatly hang pleated pieces immediately after taking them off. Use a nice skirt hanger or a dress hanger that keeps the pleats in a straight line. If you don’t hang them properly, the pleats will go off-kilter over time.”
