Designers have always had a soft spot for tough men who protect us during wartime. The word ‘‘panache,’’ after all, is borrowed from the French term for a plume on a helmet. This season, they seem taken with the romantic side of the on-the-ground, around-the-clock soldier, with clothing inspired by military ‘‘drabs’’ in sober shades, and have created an aura more poetic than macho.
“Army-esque pieces or military-inspired clothing is a classic concept that has been around for years. And, not surprisingly, army apparel has once again taken over the runways and is preparing to conquer closets. During World War II, civilians — even ladies — took to wearing government-issued trench coats as everyday outerwear in the West. And in the Vietnam era, young people in the anti-war movement appropriated fatigues — camouflage, army jackets, cargo pants — as symbols of protest, and they became trendsetters in the process,” explains Paris-based fashion designer Cameron Kham. He adds, “In the several years since, the military trend has held strong in the fashion firmament. Designers have added militaristic élan to garments by reinventing varying shades of olive green in military-style jackets, epaulet detailing on coats, camouflage printed accessories, camo accents, uniform details in skirts and more.”
With a pocket for everything and style to match modern sensibility, fall fashion has taken this utilitarian style to a new level of chic. About its classic appeal, designer Pallavi Mohan avers, “It’s functional, for one thing. And, like many utilitarian wear, it has a tough yet androgynous appeal. Who knew something called ‘olive drab’ could be so versatile and rich? But you don’t have to wear full military regalia to try out this trend. Keep it chic. Don’t go over the top. It’s easy to go wrong with such a trend. I would advise the minimalistic approach. Military fashion looks best on jackets. So, try one piece of clothing at a time. Also, it is absolutely not necessary for it to be in army green and instead of the prints you can play with army-styled buttons, brooches, striped pencil skirts, bomber jackets, khaki trousers in neutral colour tones.”
There are various ways to wear this trend without letting it wear you. “The key here is to remember that it’s not all about camouflage. Rather, think of the feminine twist on the style. Women who served in World War II wore fitted jackets that nipped in at the waist, and below-the-knee skirts that skimmed their lower bodies,” share designers Armaan Randhawa and Aiman Agha.
They add, “If you are trying the trend for the first time you can start with a green military jacket or small army detailed clutch, hand bag or just a silver army necklace and wear it with a plain tee and jeans. Printed scarf is another simple option. It is also advisable to mix other colours like white, black, nude or blue into your getup. Go for camouflage prints in other colours like blue, black or multiple colours. However, do not mix multiple camouflage prints at the same time. It’s a big NO. Full body camouflage works best on a dress. As for the fabrics, this style is about teaming hardy fabrics such as heavy cottons and waterproofs with silks, chiffons and soft merino wool. You can play around with it by pairing it with denims, cottons and black leather as well. The trend gives you multiple style options too: You can have a grunge chic look, rocker babe style avatar or the comfort of athleisure getup.”
