Artist Asif Shaikh wants the world to recognise embroidery as a fine art — and his delicate designs are certainly a step in the right direction
Designer and master embroiderer Asif Shaikh weaves magic out of threads and has been reviving the traditional crafts through his Indian embroideries. From the finest of silk yarns to Varanasi’s fabric of peacock feathers and beetle wings, he is constantly experimenting to give a contemporary feel to his weaves while keeping the traditional art form alive.
“It’s our duty to revive our ancient arts and pass it on to the next generation,” says Asif. “So much has been created in textiles and embroidery over the past 2,000 years in India, and it’s vital to preserve this heritage. My goal is not just to preserve, but also to advance the art of embroidery.”
The Ahmedabad-based artist is known for recreating the resplendence of zardozi, metal thread embroidery, through his embroidery. Over the past two decades, he has revamped tools and techniques, developed new stitches and introduced miniature-style embroidery while blending traditional and contemporary designs and training artisans. “There’s no machine in my studio. Every step is done by hand. Machine embroidery kills the look and the feel of traditional weave and also impacts the livelihood of artisans,” Asif says.
One of his innovations involves the karchob — the horizontal, floor-mounted frame on which the Mughals practised embroidery. “For 500 years, we’ve been using the same frame; it’s time to update it so we can save time without losing quality. I am waiting to get my patent rights on it,” he says.
While his artistic contributions are many, perhaps Asif’s most unique achievement is in miniature embroidery. “I had heard of miniature paintings, and thought I would apply the same concept to embroidery. I decided to reduce an embroidery design to a quarter of its original size, something that hadn’t been tried before, given the challenge of creating such minute and precise stitches. A four-inch peacock, for example, becomes 1 inch. I practised first with floral patterns using a basic chain stitch, and then created more intricate designs. I sat with my artisans for hours to guide them. It’s all about having command of the needle and being able to play with the thread,” he says.
Asif’s textiles journey started at a very young age. Often he would accompany his mother to the market and would be drawn to the embroideries around him. Today, his miniature and micro-miniature work leaves many viewers awestruck. A perfectionist, he says embroidery is meditation for his soul. “It’s my ibadat (prayer). When I sit on the frame, I go to a different world. I forget everything... For me, this is meditation.”
An interior design student, he incorporates his design sensibility in his work. “I am fascinated by the early architecture of our country from the jali work of the Mughal gharanas to the flower motifs. I try and incorporate them in my work. In a way, it is like preserving India’s artistic history.”
Currently, Asif’s objective is to teach poor women how to embroider and earn a livelihood. “It was always my dream to do something for women. People would tell me that embroidery is women’s art, so I wanted to use it to help women,” he says. “After my mother’s death in 2011, that desire became all the more urgent.”
