Ramzan couture: A new face of Muslim fashion

Mumbai: As the setting sun bleeds orange across the sky and the muezzin’s call to prayer marks the end of a day of fasting in the month of Ramzan, the darkening evening comes alive with feasting, iftar parties, bonhomie and brotherhood, cheer and style. This holy month has now entered fashion calendars as designers create special Ramzan collections.

This season, DKNY launched its first Ramadan Collection exclusively for the Middle East. Gone are the days when one would associate the Middle East with sun, sand and bustling souks where men, women, camels and everything else was traded under one roof. The economic boom in the Gulf has made the new age Arabian markets fabulously haute and happening. High-end global luxury labels and designers have their representation here with regionalised collections that are traditionally modest yet stylishly exciting — giving rise to a new face of Muslim fashion.

From crystal-studded abayas and expensive embellished jeans, Muslim women are embracing fashion like never before. Several Indian designers do special Ramzan collections for this market. Designer Reynu Taandon, who gets her major orders from the Middle East stores every season, says, “Women there are now experimenting with modern trends with a conventional touch. For Ramzan, we have done special abayas and long skirts with peplum full-sleeve tops.”

“They also prefer full-length gowns in Western silhouettes, but with traditional embroideries,” adds Reynu. Designer Bhumika Grover, who will be showcasing at the SoPritti exhibition in Dubai this September, mentions, “In the Middle East, women are getting out of their comfort zone and are ready to experiment with different patterns, cuts, colours and fabrics.”

The new freethinking generation of women in this region is well travelled and educated, and when it comes to fashion they like to think global, act local. Designer Anjallee Kapoor, of the label Anjallee and Arjun Kapoor, points out how Ramzan is a month-long occasion for these women to flaunt their latest sartorial garbs at roza-iftar parties and Id. She says, “They have all-women parties and get-togethers during this holy month, for which they need a lot of clothes. They love to experiment with vibrant colours, sleeve designs and cuts. We have done a line of easy-to-wear draped saris and gowns for them.”

The Middle East is a very important market, says couturier J.J. Valaya, who has a flagship store in Dubai for a decade now. “We have an avid following with many first families of the region. There have been times when we have been doing fittings in a palace with a Chanel or a Valentino fitting in the next room. Publicly, we may be used to seeing Arab women in their favourite abayas, but in more discreet chambers, the very same women live their lives in Dior, Chanel, Gaultier and Valentino. In fact, if a Sheikha does frequent a brand’s flagship store, most establishments worldwide close the store for general audience to enable her to shop in peace; this alone shows the importance of this market. We have created a special edition of abaya with embroideries and appliqué.”

Major luxury brands stage private shows at the finest of hotels in the Middle East or in the palaces and homes of their regular customers.
Sunil Sethi, FDCI (Fashion Design Council of India) president, points out that there’s been a marked rise in the number of buyers from Middle East countries during Indian fashion weeks in the last few years.

“At the Wills India Fashion Week, there is a huge segment of Middle Eastern customers who place major orders with our designers. The maximum business comes from Dubai, Riyadh and Kuwait, where Indian designers have a dedicated clientele. When the fashion week takes place during Ramzan, we even create a prayer room for our Muslim buyers from these countries because they are our guests.”

High-end stores like Harvey Nichols of Riyadh, Saks Fifth Avenue of Dubai, Baby Fair of Bahrain, Villa Moda of Kuwait and many other luxury hubs from this region regularly place their annual orders with Indian designers.

Bollywood’s favourite designer and couturier Manish Malhotra, who designed for a Riyadh princess’s wedding sometime back, says that the Middle East market is the most lucrative for Indian business.

He says, “I have a strong presence there and when five years ago the economy went through a dip, I changed my store to room space in Studio 8. I presented my Indian collection at the Doha film festival where famous Egyptian actresses walked the red carpet in my elaborate Indian wear, and I have recently launched my limited collection at Harvey Nichols, Riyadh.”

In the Gulf they believe in spoiling their women, feels designer Shefali Vohra, who lived in the USA, the UK, India and is now based in Dubai. “Arab sheikhs and Pakistani women in general believe in a comfort-oriented lifestyle and are very particular about grooming, hence tattoos, expensive outfits and lingerie are very much in demand. Lately, Muslim women have become very fashion-conscious; they wear Victoria’s Secret cat suits under their hijab. The trends are more in tune with Paris or Europe; with cover-ups of the abayas, which now designers such as Christian Dior, Chanel and Ed Hardy are doing with Swarovski embellishments and Chantilly lace. Expensive embellished jeans are another trend, and shoes and accessories by Gautier, Giuseppe Zanotti, Jimmy Choo etc. are popular,” she says.

The Middle East, known as the GCC (Gulf Cooperation Council) market, is a shopper’s Mecca. Vohra says, “The prices for all products are approx 30-40 per cent higher, since everything is imported, but no other country boasts of these many collections of designers under one roof. Indian designers have an advantage here due to the high demand of ethnic and Indian fusion wear. The population in the GCC, especially Dubai, is 58 per cent Indian/Pakistani.”

They are willing to pay big bucks, but only if the best of quality is on offer. Designer Pria Kataaria Puri mentions her Middle East buyers and clients are very quality conscious. She says, “They are very fashion forward and like taking risks as fashion is a big part of their culture. From classic to funky fashion, women in these nations like exotic styles and one-of-a-kind looks. Kaftans, gowns, maxis and long-length silhouettes are more in demand than short dresses.”