A Moroccan affair

A mystical land, Morocco in northwest Africa gives you a glimpse of desert dunes, ski resorts and snow- clad mountains, all at the same time. The romance of Casablanca, the magic of Marrakech, the Roman ruins of Volubilis and the swarming medinas of Meknes exude a kind of magnetism that draws tourists from across the world. An Islamic nation with a universal soul, Morocco has an African ambience tempered with European influences and hence brings together two different worlds of aesthetics. Unfazed by the Arab Spring that transformed Egypt, Libya and Tunisia, the Kingdom of Morocco has a much loved monarch, Mohammed VI, and remains unaffected by the political tensions around.
 
Marrakech
One of Morocco’s most visited cities, Marrakech is a peculiar mix of the sacred and the wicked. While on one hand it exudes a sense of spirituality and calm, on the other it is a microcosm of frenzied activity. The main square at Djemaa El Fna is brimming with hawkers, snake charmers and magicians and the markets throw open a tempting mix of goodies ranging from kaftans and trinkets to argan oil and dates. Much like the Indian markets, haggling here is the norm.

The Tizi-n-Ichka pass in the Atlas Mountains makes for a picturesque tourist stopover, but tread the path only if you’re ready for a bumpy ride. From the village of Merzouga in the northeast a zigzagging taxi ride to the Algerian border through endless flat land without roads, borders or check-posts presented a terrifying experience. I thought the driver was a raving maniac until he gave us insights into his black humour. A backbreaking camel trek to the towering sand dunes at Erg Chebbi on the edge of the Sahara provided the excitement of a lifetime.
 
Casablanca
Casablanca, immortalised by the 1942 Hollywood blockbuster, was formerly a French colonial port. Predictably, this was my first port of call. Tourists make a beeline to Rick’s Café, made famous by Ingrid Bergman and Humphrey Bogart. Interestingly, the cafe did not exist when the movie was filmed. It was only in 2004 that it was opened to recreate the magic of the 1940s. The delectable menu here includes couscous, tajine and pastille and the irresistible mint tea — all of which can be enjoyed over the music of yesterdays.

The magnificent Hassan II mosque here has the world’s tallest minaret (689 feet) and nocturnal lasers beam in the direction of Makkah. The architectural marvel has glass floors enabling the devout to kneel over the ocean, while automated sliding roofs reveal the clear blue skies above. The building encases Turkish hamaams and Venetian Murano glass chandeliers, that make the place not just spiritually but also visually delightful. Also, it is open to people of all faiths and I was fortunate to have glimpses of the stunning interiors.
 
Rabat
Rabat is more than just the capital of Morocco. It plays host to an archaeological museum that houses a rare collection of Roman bronzes — a treat for anyone interested in digging up past treasures. Not very far from Rabat, Ait Benhaddou, a fortified village, has an interesting tale that makes it a tourist hotspot not just for its history, but also its Hollywood connection. Ait Benhaddou is located on the caravan route that once conveyed slaves, gold, ivory and salt from sub-Saharan Africa to the markets of Marrakech, making it an important commercial street. Besides, it is also the place where films such as Lawrence of Arabia, Star Wars and The Gladiator were shot.

Tangiers
As an example of how liberal an outlook the country has, Tangiers in Morocco is said to have hosted the world’s first gay resort. Interestingly, Tangiers and Mumbai have a common history as they formed part of the dowry of Catherine of Braganza when the Portuguese princess married Charles II of England in 1662. It is also famous as the birthplace of one of the world’s greatest travellers, Ibn Battuta. In the 14th century, this young lad took off on a pilgrimage to Makkah and returned 24 years later, having ventured as far as China. In Delhi he served as a qadi under Mohammed-bin- Tughlaq for six years, later sailing to Calicut, Quilon and Sri Lanka.

Fes
Fes, the third largest city of Morocco, still retains its old world milieu. Fes-al-Bali, one of the world’s largest medinas, has 1,50,000 occupants and is free of cars and buses. Donkeys and motorbikes transport the goods. The only way to explore the narrow lanes with their mosques, souks and madrasas is on foot. Tanning is a major industry and the vats and dyes are worth a look, if you can ignore the strong smells. You’ve been warned!

— Pushpa is an author and travel enthusiast