Camping in Coorg

Coorg is fast becoming the go-to destination for serious and recreational adventure sports. If you have a penchant for hanging off the side of a cliff by your fingernails or hurtling down a steep rocky, muddy hill on a bicycle, then this is definitely the place to go to — especially this season. While there are many packaged tour operators who offer things like trekking, trail running, ziplining, cycling, camping and sometimes even rafting in their itineraries, we suggest that you go out and explore the place on your own.

And the best way to do this, as we found, was to use the right homestay as a base. Hillyside is our favourite at the moment because the property itself is large and beautiful. The husband and wife caretaker team is wonderful and they really know how to look after their guests. Besides, you have the whole estate to yourselves as there’s just one house and they rent out the whole place.

From there, the Harangi reservoir is about an hour and half’s bicycle ride or four or five hour’s trek. Like most water bodies, a small part of it with good access is very touristy and best avoided. You’re best off taking one of the small paths around its bank until you find a nice spot. This is a truly beautiful part of the country if you like camping. Though we do recommend that you carry everything you might need. If you haven’t got a tent, sleep in your car. We did. And it was brilliant!
Camping essentials include sleeping bags, tents (optional),  kerosene burners, tinned/dry food, plenty of matchboxes or lighters, LED torches, mosquito repellent, bog roll (lots of), a Swiss knife, garbage bags, portable water purifier and protective clothing. Because do keep in mind that you’re in a jungle and that means some animals that will enjoy eating you as much as you’ll enjoy your tinned tuna. So keep a fire lit the whole night and don’t you leave any food lying around outside your tent... especially chicken bones.

Madikeri, or the capital of the Kodagu region we call Coorg, is well connected by road from Bengaluru and Mysore. KSRTC operates three Volvos and many other buses every day from Bengaluru city so getting there is no hassle. However, once you get to Madikeri, you’ll have trouble if you don’t have your own car or bike. Taxis are expensive and the buses are cramped and nauseating. We recommend that you drive from Bengaluru city via the scenic Srirangapatna and Kushalnagar route.

The 250km road takes no more than five hours, even if you drive like an undertaker. It’s also a great route for motorcycling. I’ve been to these parts a few times in proper SUVs and I can tell you this — Coorg is off-roading heaven. If you have a proper off-roader, wait for it to start raining and then just drive out into the wilderness. You and your car will be tested harder than you can imagine and it’s tremendously satisfying to go places where cars were never meant to go. Provided you survive the ordeal.

Even though this region is fairly touristy, there aren’t too many proper restaurants for good local food. But don’t let that put you off because the locals take their food quite seriously. The absolute must-try is the Pandi curry. It’s a slow-cooked pork stew with loads of big and bold flavours, especially pepper.

Also, a quick look at a map will inform you that Coorg is in Karnataka, but I don’t think the locals have got that memo. Kodavas (people from Kodagu) are nothing like people from the rest of Karnataka. They are fundamentally a martial race and as a result, they are healthy, well-groomed, sophisticated and well-mannered, and protective. I wouldn’t recommend you try their tempers because they’ll first knock you out and then invite you over for some amazing coffee. They also hate litterers.

All things considered, Coorg is a great place to go to this time of year and conditions are absolutely ideal for nature lovers and adventurers to be by themselves for a weekend or so.

Camping essentials: Camping essentials include sleeping bags, tents (optional),  kerosene burners, tinned/dry food, plenty of matchboxes/lighters, LED torches, mosquito repellent, bog roll (lots of), Swiss knife, garbage bags, portable water purifier and protective clothing. Do keep in mind that you’re in a jungle. That means some animals that will enjoy eating you as much as you’ll enjoy your tinned tuna. So keep a fire lit the whole night. And don’t leave any food lying around outside your tent; especially chicken bones. Remember to clean up after yourself at your campsite.

How to get there: Madikeri, or the capital of the Kodagu region we call Coorg, is well connected by road from Bengaluru and Mysore. KSRTC operates 3 Volvos and many other buses every day from Bengaluru, so getting there is no hassle. However, once you get to Madikeri, you’ll have trouble if you don’t have your own car or bike. Taxis are expensive and the buses are cramped. We recommend that you drive from Bengaluru via Srirangapatna and Kushalnagar. The 250-km route takes no more than five hours, even if you drive like an undertaker. It’s a great route for motorcycling as well.

Sidharth Sharotri is a motoring enthusiast