Built for people, backed by science

At a time when skincare trends come and go, the allure of medical-grade formulas lies in their ability to deliver tangible results backed by science

Update: 2024-06-18 20:19 GMT
Medical-grade formulations frequently include stabilisers and improved packaging to protect the components from light, air, and other environmental elements that can cause degradation. (Image by arrangement)

Medical-grade skincare products, which claim to be based on cutting-edge research and high-potency chemicals, appeal to a rising sector of consumers who want more than just cosmetic changes for their skin.

But do these brands follow through on their promises, or are they simply capitalising on the trustworthiness of their founders?
Not many know that medical-grade formulations often include highly stable chemicals that not only last longer but also are more resistant to degradation. They also use improved absorption procedures to ensure that active substances penetrate deeper skin layers.

So, should one go for it?

Dr S Madhuri, consultant dermatologist at KIMS Icon, says medical-grade skincare products are regulated by the FDA to ensure they meet safety and quality standards. “The primary difference between OTC and medical or pharmaceutical-grade skincare products is that they can only be prescribed by a medical professional,” she points out.
Medical care products contain better-quality ingredients, and they are required to contain the purest form of medical ingredients that are 99% pure. “They also contain higher concentrations of active ingredients than what you can buy over the counter. Products that are purchased online are not held to the same standard,” she says.

‘Clinically proven ingredients’

Dr Debeshi Bhattacharjee, award-winning clinical cosmetologist, medical head, and founder of Lueur Aesthetics, says medical-grade skincare products are often touted as superior due to their higher concentrations of active ingredients and rigorous quality control.
She says these products are typically formulated with clinically proven ingredients, such as retinoids, peptides, antioxidants, and growth factors, in concentrations that are higher than those found in over-the-counter (OTC) products. “This means they can be more effective for addressing specific skin concerns, such as acne, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, and rosacea.”

Potency & Efficacy

One of the primary benefits of medical skin care is the longevity of its active ingredients, says Dr Madhu Chopra, Cosmetologist, Managing Director of Studio Aesthetique. “Stability is essential, as unstable chemicals can quickly degrade and lose potency before being applied to the skin. Medical-grade formulations frequently include stabilisers and improved packaging to protect the components from light, air, and other environmental elements that can cause degradation. Antioxidants, such as vitamin C, are notoriously unstable, but in medical-grade solutions, they are frequently coupled with stabilising agents to ensure their effectiveness for prolonged periods of time.”
Dermatologists and other skin care professionals who create these products provide a wealth of information about the biology and pathology of the skin, which influences their formulation. “This professional backing adds legitimacy and ensures that the products are founded on sound scientific concepts,” adds Dr Madhu.

Licensed professionals

One significant difference between medical-grade and regular skincare brands is the level of regulation and oversight. “Medical-grade products are often subject to stringent testing and clinical trials to verify their safety and efficacy. They are usually distributed through licensed professionals, such as dermatologists and aestheticians, ensuring that they are recommended and used correctly based on individual skin needs,” says Debeshi.
In contrast, OTC skincare products are designed for the general population and typically contain lower concentrations of active ingredients to minimise the risk of adverse reactions. “While they can be effective for basic skincare maintenance, their lower potency might not be sufficient for more serious skin issues.”

Cost factor

The cost of medical-grade skincare products is generally higher due to the quality of ingredients, research, and development involved. “For many people, this higher price point can be justified by the noticeable results and the personalised care they receive when purchasing these products through a professional,” she says.
However, whether medical-grade skincare is worth the investment depends on individual skin needs and goals. “For those with specific or severe skin concerns, these products can offer significant benefits that OTC options cannot match,” says Debeshi.

Growing demand

Dr Trishna Gupte, clinical cosmetologist and trichologist, says in today’s beauty industry, there is a growing demand for skin care products that promise more than surface-level changes. “Touted as backed by cutting-edge research and highly effective chemicals, the allure of medical-grade skin care has captured the attention of discerning consumers looking for effective solutions to their skin problems,” says Trishna, Head of Academics, and Founder-Owner of The Cosmo-Square Clinic, ISCA.
But the big question remains: are these brands delivering on their promises, or are they just using the credibility of their founders to sell products?
“The core of medical skin care is the use of highly stable chemicals. Unlike traditional skin care ingredients, these products are designed to last longer and resist degradation more effectively. This durability ensures that the products maintain their potency and effectiveness over time, providing the user with consistent results,” says Trishna.

R&D

The effectiveness of medical skin care products is not just a marketing gimmick; it is rooted in scientific research and careful formulation procedures. Trishna says brands in this category invest heavily in research and development to create formulations that are not only effective but also safe for long-term use. “This commitment to excellence is reflected in the results users experience, making medical-grade skin care the preferred choice for those looking for real and lasting improvements in their skin’s health,” she says.
Dr Madhu, on the other hand, emphasises that the FDA does not have control over the term “medical grade.” “This means that not all medically marketed products adhere to the same quality and efficacy standards. As a result, customers must choose products from reputable producers and engage with health professionals to guarantee they are using products that will improve their skin.”
However, the increasing popularity of medical skin care has generated questions about the industry’s openness and responsibility. “As consumers trust these products, more scrutiny is needed on brand claims and the credentials of their founders,” believes Trishna.
"Stability is essential, as unstable chemicals can quickly degrade and lose potency before being applied to the skin. Medical-grade formulations frequently include stabilisers and improved packaging to protect the components from light, air, and other environmental elements that can cause degradation. Antioxidants, such as vitamin C, are notoriously unstable, but in medical-grade solutions, they are frequently coupled with stabilising agents to ensure their effectiveness for prolonged periods of time.” — Dr Madhu Chopra, Cosmetologist
"The debate surrounding medical skin care products is far from over, but one thing is clear: in a market flooded with promises of miraculous transformations, authenticity, credibility, and a commitment to scientific integrity will always be the cornerstones of truly revolutionary skin care.” — Trishna Gupte, clinical cosmetologist and trichologist


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