Natty netas & pricey khadi

Ultra-expensive handspun khadi silk clothing is the haute favourite dress code of some of our top politicians

Update: 2024-10-02 21:47 GMT
A file photo of Opposition leaders clad in Khadi clothes. (Photo PTI)

This Gandhi Jayanti when you see your favourite neta (politician) clad in white khadi clothes, don’t be fooled by his or her ‘simple’ attire. Most netas prefer wearing only high-quality handspun, handwoven khadi silk fabrics which cost Rs 1,600 per metre and above. For the uninitiated, handspun khadi silk fabric is scarce and extremely costly. Now, do the math for a full-size kurta-pajama, Nehru Jacket, shawl, or six-metre tussar silk saree. You will realise that the cost of your nattily-dressed neta’s khadi silk ensemble could easily fetch the monthly ration of a poor family!

Khadi (aka khaddar), once a marker of India’s self-sufficiency and freedom struggle has over time transformed into a luxury fabric for many Indian politicians.
The khadi kurta-pyjama, dhoti, mundu and elegant sarees worn by some of our elected representatives may project an image of modesty, but the price tags tell a
different story. In fact, the high-quality Khadi silk, munga, tussar, matka, and katia varieties worn by many of today’s political leaders can range from `1,600 to `4,500 per metre.

Spinning Yarns

The bespoke Khadi clothes sported by some of our politicians are from the finest handspun silk and cotton yarns. The clothes are tailored to perfection by some of the best tailors and fashion designers in the country. A perfect blend of simplicity and exclusivity!

Fashion designer and artist Venkat Gaddam from Hyderabad says that as a designer, he deeply values the art of hand-spun fabrics. “But the industry needs a balance — one that honours the artisans and keeps Khadi’s ethos intact, while also ensuring that it remains affordable for the people the way Gandhiji envisioned it. Accessibility is key in preserving Khadi’s true spirit as a fabric for everyone.”

Gandhiji’s Ideals

Mahatma Gandhiji envisioned Khadi as a way of self-reliance and empowerment during the freedom struggle. The spinning wheel, or charkha, became a symbol of India’s freedom movement, with Gandhiji urging Indians to spin their own clothes rather than depend on British imports. Khadi is thus more than just a fabric. It is a statement of resistance, self-sufficiency, integrity and dignity.
Fast forward to contemporary India, and Khadi has evolved into something quite different — a status symbol fabric to some of the political elite. Many politicians across party lines are often seen wearing Khadi, a sartorial choice meant to convey their commitment to Gandhian principles. However, the Khadi they wear today is far from the coarse labour-intensive fabric that symbolised the struggles of the Indian masses during our freedom struggle.
Many say that Khadi has now become a paradox. A fabric that was once a hallmark of frugality is now a status symbol among India's ruling elite. Some wear it for photo optics and share it on social media during Gandhi Jayanti, others flaunt it during election rallies. The stark contrast between the cost of the khadi outfits and the economic realities of the common Indian is telling.
Krishan Kumar Jageshwar Chaurasia’s (75) family encapsulates his entire personality in two words – True Gandhivadi. From the clothes he wore to his morals and to the food he ate. “He wasn't liked a lot by his close family or even relatives. He was the man who would wear his plain-looking khadi shirts and white kurtas to the most auspicious event. He was very strict and hated showing off. Only during Diwali, he would buy a slightly expensive, more colourful khadi kurta,” says his family.

A Political Tool

There’s no denying that Khadi still carries political weight. In many parts of the country, politicians wear Khadi to align themselves with Gandhiji’s legacy and to portray themselves as champions of the common man. During election season, Khadi becomes a staple in campaign wardrobes. The fabric’s historical association with the Independence movement still holds strong emotional appeal, especially among voters.
But while Khadi may evoke memories of Gandhiji’s ideals, the way it is now worn and marketed reflects the contradictions inherent in modern Indian
politics. The expensive, designer
Khadi outfits worn by our netas today contrast sharply with Gandhi’s vision of self-sufficiency and empowerment for India’s rural poor. They serve as a reminder that in politics, appearances can be deceiving.
What was once a humble fabric meant to empower the poorest of the poor has become, for many in power, a luxury item — an ultra-expensive status symbol. Gandhiji’s Khadi was more than just clothing. It was about empowering individuals, fostering dignity, and promoting self-reliance. As Khadi continues to evolve, perhaps the true challenge is not in how the fabric is worn, but in how its underlying ideals can be reclaimed in today’s complex political landscape!


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