From Shade-Grown to Sun-Dried: India's Unique Coffee Practices
By : Reshmi AR
Update: 2024-11-04 12:00 GMT
With India's coffee exports on the rise, D.M. Purnesh, a 4th-generation coffee planter and SCAI President, discusses the industry's transformation, challenges, and opportunities. He also previews the Indian International Coffee Festival (IICF) 2024.
As a 4th-generation coffee planter from Chikmagalur, what do you believe are the key factors contributing to India's growing significance in the global coffee industry, and how will IICF 2024 showcase this growth?
As a fourth-generation coffee grower from Chikmagalur, I’ve seen India’s coffee sector transform. Early on, the only way to sell coffee was through the Coffee Board, which meant surrendering the entire crop and losing its unique identity. That changed in the 1990s when Indian coffee began gaining global recognition for its quality. Today, our beans are acknowledged for their high standards, commanding premiums over those from other nations. The 2023 World Coffee Conference in Bengaluru, attended by over 20,000 visitors from 80 countries, underscored this recognition. IICF 2024 aims to build on this success by connecting India’s coffee industry with the global community. As President of the Specialty Coffee Association of India (SCAI), we are committed to hosting IICF for the next decade.
With your extensive experience in coffee cultivation and export, what innovations or trends do you see shaping the future of Indian coffee, and how will these be highlighted at IICF 2024?
Major challenges like climate change and rising labor costs are pushing Indian coffee growers to innovate. While mechanisation can help reduce labor needs, India’s terrain presents difficulties in implementing these systems on a large scale. The IICF plays an important role in bridging this gap by enabling producers to connect directly with the market, giving roasters and traders (B2B) a firsthand look at the quality of Indian coffee. IICF also introduces premium Indian coffee to a broader audience, encouraging a coffee culture domestically by hosting events across major cities.
As the founder of the Specialty Coffee Association of India (SCAI), what role do you envision SCAI playing in promoting Indian specialty coffee globally, and how will IICF 2024 support this mission?
The Specialty Coffee Association of India (SCAI) is an inclusive organisation representing India’s coffee value chain—from growers to cafes. Over time, SCAI has helped Indian specialty coffee build a respected global presence, commanding premium prices in both domestic and international markets. Our mission at SCAI is to promote specialty coffee and foster partnerships within the coffee community worldwide. The IICF events support these goals, further establishing India as a key player in the global coffee industry.
How does sustainable coffee production and agroforestry feature in your business philosophy, and what initiatives will be showcased at IICF 2024 to promote environmentally conscious coffee practices?
Indian coffee stands out because it’s shade-grown, spring-washed, and sun-dried, thriving in biodiverse areas without disrupting local ecosystems. Sustainability is central to our philosophy, incorporating rainwater harvesting for irrigation and using organic manure from jungle trees. The IICF gives growers a platform to showcase their sustainable methods, while entrepreneurs can present innovations like biofertilisers and eco-friendly equipment. Educational programs at IICF will also underscore the importance of environmentally conscious agricultural practices.
India has made significant strides in coffee exports, with your company being a leading player. What opportunities and challenges do you see for Indian coffee exporters in the global market, and how will IICF 2024 address these?
Indian specialty coffee has successfully established a niche in international markets, often fetching premium prices. This achievement is the result of hard work by SCAI members who have traveled extensively to build Indian coffee’s reputation globally. However, rising production costs and climate challenges require growers to secure even better prices to stay sustainable. IICF 2024 provides a venue for exporters to connect with potential buyers, strengthening India’s market presence and enhancing demand.
As a pioneer in coffee research and development, what new products or processing methods can attendees expect to learn about at IICF 2024, and how will these contribute to the growth of India's coffee industry?
Indian coffee processing has made significant strides, embracing techniques such as barrel-aging, using in-house yeasts to bring out unique flavours, and incorporating local ingredients like bananas and oranges in fermentation. At our own estate, we’re among the first to apply these methods to Robusta coffee, shifting perceptions about its flavour. India now offers a range of coffee products, including pod machines, frozen espresso capsules, and ready-to-drink varieties. IICF serves as a hub where coffee enthusiasts can explore these innovations and where estates can forge partnerships with manufacturers, broadening the reach of Indian coffee.
Inspired by the wine and alcohol industries, SCAI has introduced national competitions to elevate Indian coffee, such as:
National Barista Championship
National Latte Art Championship
National Brewers Cup Championship
Coffee In Good Spirits Championship
World Filter Coffee Championship
These competitions attract young talent, including home brewers, providing the next generation with opportunities to showcase their skills and raise awareness of Indian coffee. SCAI is committed to creating learning opportunities across the industry, promoting a deep understanding of specialty coffee production and marketing.