Asian affair: millet wraps meet nasi goreng

Bangaloreans of a certain vintage will remember a kinder, gentler era when Pam Crane crooned nightly at Hotel Bangalore International, or HBI, as it was affectionately referred to, by those in the know. It was the hottest spot in town where Tanya Jacoby with her trademark ivory cigarette holder and a live boa constrictor draped around her neck, shook a leg. Desmond Rice of Blue Fox and Prince's honed his skills in HBI before going on to make a mark in the hospitality industry with Desmond's. Ah well, mustn't bore you with old memories.

Speaking of which, nostalgia seems to have inspired the Hyatt Centric on M.G Road where they have pressed the rewind button and gone in for an airy, al fresco feel for their all day dining restaurant, the Bangalore Brasserie.

Most business hotels blindly adhere to the cookie-cutter template of marble columns, carpeting and polished steel, but here a valiant attempt has been made to create the ambience of a lush tropical garden with luxuriant foliage, artful lighting and outdoor furniture overlooking the dramatic backdrop of the swimming pool. I had dinner there last week with the entrepreneur turned author, Sanjay Kumar and his charming wife, Linnika who reveled in the romantic atmosphere.

Ignoring the charms of the Continental and Chinese sections of the menu, we decided to try some of the eclectic selections from Chef Manish Uniyal's new menu. Intriguingly, he  has concentrated on recipes from the heart of Karnataka with an entire section dedicated to wellness cuisine which will delight vegans, keto fans and the calorie conscious.  

The menu offers classic plates with a modern interpretation of local favourites and the environmentally conscious will approve of the effort to use fresh locally sourced ingredients to the extent possible. The 'Mannine Magga', (Son of the Soil) section offers Millet Wraps, Kodava Fish Curry served with red rice and Kori Gassi, the staple Mangalorean chicken curry paired with set dosa. I know, a purist would prefer neer dosa or rice rotti, but you can't have everything. Plus there's the ever popular Bisi Bele Bath and Pandi Curry. The fish curry was excellent: perfectly cooked generous portions of seer in a tangy gravy which goes well with the red rice. The Pandi curry was good but could have done with a little more pepper and kachampuli, IMHO (in my humble opinion).

For those looking for the usual staples, the menu offers burgers, pizza, wraps, sandwiches, pastas and risotto. I spotted the unusual Hainanese Chicken Rice from Singapore, which is comfort food yet very tasty with a delicious accompanying sauce, then there's the Thai Kaeng Karee and the popular Nasi Goreng from Indonesia. The 'Indian Affair' section has the usual suspects: Dum Biryani, Mutton Rogan Josh and Dal Makhani which are the crowd pleasers.  Light and healthy alternatives include the Sorghum Khichdi, Broiled Chicken with Olives and Pan-Seared Barramundi.  

We tried the rocket salad and the deconstructed Salad Nicoise: the latter is made with green beans, eggs, onions and anchovies, which were substituted with salmon. Reasonably good but I would have preferred crunchier leaves andfor the eggs to be dunked in cold water immediately after cooking to preclude that grayish tinge on the yolk. The Railway Mutton Curry is rich and flavourful, best had with tandoori roti.

According to Chef Uniyal, “The dishes on the new menu cater to a range of taste palates by taking diners on a unique journey through South India and Asia, working with natural oils and locally grown fruits and vegetables. Focusing on holistic mind-body wellness, it is our endeavour to provide healthy meals that offer variety, vibrancy and great taste."

They have an excellent selection of wines: some good Chiantis and Barolos and a comprehensive selection of cocktails and mocktails.

—Ajit Saldanha is a long time foodie