Fash frat's style quotient
A host of young and talented designers have been getting accolades and star clients that their work truly deserves.
When it comes to spotting new talent, variety and options to choose from, nobody is doing it better than the fashion industry. Suddenly there are some zillion new labels and looks to choose from and the ones that are endorsing this upcoming talent and ensuring they are getting the right attention, are none other than the A-list movie stars and celebrities. While old-time and established greats such as Manish Malhotra, Sabyasachi and Abu-Sandeep continue to be red carpet favourites, they are no longer the only go-to labels for everything. Actors, including top stars like Deepika Padukone, Sonam Kapoor, Alia Bhatt, Kangana Ranaut and Priyanka Chopra, are now wearing upcoming labels like Huemn, Shift, Raw Mango, Anita Dongre, Payal Khandwala, Atsu Sekhose, Masaba Gupta, Ka-Sha-Khan... as frequently or more.
Fashion for every occasion
How did Bollywood get so experimental? Well, having a lot more occasions to attend, constantly being checked out by bloggers and social media, the emergence of fashion weeks and stylists, and the desire of every second person to become a designer (which brings with it some amazing things along with the truly terrible) has contributed to this forever expanding and lucrative fashion industry. Also, gone are the days when one needed to buy ‘designer wear’ or nice outfits just for weddings and formal occasions.
People want to look good even while whizzing in and out of airports, and you need smart day dresses when promoting movies at malls, colleges or even corporate offices like Facebook. Stars need up to five different outfits a day, thanks to their social commitments. The super stylish ones like Kangana Ranaut and Sonam Kapoor, are not satisfied with any ‘signature look’. If it’s a slashed V neck jumpsuit for the evening, it could be a super feminine sari for the night and then something comfortable for the flight back home. And the ones who are ensuring that this variety is made available to them are their stylists.
Enter the Stylist!
Yes, this new breed of talent spotters who specialise in not just picking the right dress, but putting it perfectly together for their client, are responsible for making so many upcoming labels famous by getting celebs to wear their clothes. One of the hippest stylists in the industry is Ami Patel, and she has Kangana Ranaut, Priyanka Chopra and Alia Bhatt, relying on her for that perfect outfit and look. A former fashion director from L’Officiel magazine, Ami was interested in the concept of celebrity styling. After doing a shoot with Priyanka Chopra, she randomly bumped into her at a store a few months later and got chatting. Priyanka was looking for a personal stylist, Ami was open to the idea and their collaboration began. It has been six years since. With Kangana, it has been two years now and what Ami loves about the star is her ability to rock any look. “Kangana makes my life really easy because she has an amazing body and great personal sense of style. She can carry off any look. She can do edgy, feminine and more,” says Ami.
And how does Ami spot the right silhouette needed for a particular event? Explaining how she sources the outfits, Ami says, “Fashion gets covered so much today because of the media. Also, we keep an eye on all the collections during fashion weeks and check out social media to see designers and their work.” She also points out that it’s no fun to keep dressing anyone in just one label. “Movie promotions take up to 25 days. There is so much happening that you can’t wear just one designer even if the brand is big. You need different clothes for different occasions too,” she adds. When she’s picking out clothes for Priyanka or Kangana, she says, “It’s more about the look and the silhouette than the brand. I might just love one look from an entire collection. There are no favourites because every season is different and what works for me this season may not work in the next. Priyanka also feels the same way. She, too, goes by the outfit, not the brand. It’s great to be like that and have a sense of style than just go by brand names.” Though Ami may just pick one dress from a collection, the designer is not complaining because when someone like Kangana is spotted in one of your designs, you have generated all the buzz and attention your label needs.
Designer Vs Stylist
Designer Payal Khandwala, whose colourful, Indo-western style, which pays homage to our rich history of textiles, is now a hit with a host of stars like Anushka Sharma, Aishwarya Rai Bachchan, Malaika Arora Khan and Sonam Kapoor to name a few, agrees that it’s because of the stylists that talented, new designers are getting the attention they deserve. “The concept of personal styling is a big factor in this phenomena. Stylists are young and constantly looking for fresh ideas and ensembles that they want their clients to try. Also, styling has emerged as a lucrative profession, many young design graduates now prefer to be stylists rather than designers. So there is competition and they are always looking to spot new, younger talent that is ‘different’ in an effort to be less predictable,” says Payal.
Designers, Labels and The Look
Talking about her successful label, Payal says, “I started my brand around five years ago, and the people who initially started wearing my clothes were actress Konkona Sen Sharma, director Gauri Shinde and celebrity hair stylist Adhuna Akhtar. They are friends — people I hang out with. They reached out to me and I was happy to dress them. I guess people noticed them and the rest got in touch.”
Describing her style, she says, “I make simple, sensible and luxurious clothes. Not something that makes you skip meals and suck in your tummy. They are easy to wear, practical and you can cross your legs if you want. I focus on proportion and colour. In the end, it’s a product and it has to be distinctive and one that works for my audience.”
While our designers are making beautiful clothes, the ones who are busy choosing them for their star clients are the stylists. Like Payal, another brand that’s popular with celebs, even with actors like Ranveer Singh and Varun Dhawan is Huemn. The designers behind the brand, Shyma Shetty and Pranav Mishra, won the Vogue Fashion Fund for 2016. What makes them so special? One of the judges on the panel, Pernia Qureshi of Pernia’s Pop Up Shop says, “They are cool, contemporary and the brand has a western, worldly aesthetic. They are very fashion forward and ahead of the curve — actors love them.”
When asked what gives her brand this edge, Shyma Shetty says, “Our clothes are something that you can wear both to the red carpet and the mall. They are comfortable and this is the key. You no longer need an occasion to dress. The brand is not expensive, it is easily reachable and we don’t believe in making one-time-wear clothes.” Shyma elaborates, “Earlier, people would only invest in designer wear, mostly embellished and embroidered ensembles for specific occasions. Now, it is no longer the case. Heavy clothes all the time do not suit our lifestyles.”
Huemn is just five years old and the brand generated a lot of interest when Sonam Kapoor was spotted at Cannes in 2013. “Her sister Rhea Kapoor was styling her and had gotten in touch with us as well as other designers to source clothes. Sonam ended up liking our outfit which was a sari-trouser silhouette. It was a 100 per cent silk colour blocked new age sari that featured basic palazzo pants silhouette that was easy to wear. Also, we have shown at fashion weeks consistently every season, which keeps our loyalists in the loop.” Celebrities spotted in Huemn include Sonam Kapoor and Deepika Padukone. Designer Atsu Sekhose is also proving to be a celeb favourite with his evening wear. Pernia points out, “Deepika Padukone, Lisa Haydon and Freida Pinto have all been seen wearing his label.”
Everyday Fashion
When it comes to day wear and clothes that you want to stock up on while travelling, so that you look super chic during a summer in Europe or even while lunching closer home, look no further than the brand Shift, started by Mumbai-based designer Nimish Shah. Kalki swears by him, Sonam has tonnes of his frocks, and Deepika, too, is a fan along with a host of other smartly-dressed women.
What is the secret to his success? Nimish answers, “When I started Shift, it was about basic, everyday clothes, but quality wear — a premium quality garment. Earlier celebrity wardrobes were spotted mostly over special occasions and appearances. Now, it’s all about the personality and living life aesthetically — they are dressed properly all the time (well thought off and styled), ‘off duty’ looks as one may call. I think we fit there beautifully. A lot of our patrons like Sonam, Deepika and Kalki started buying clothes from us. We don’t do red carpet clothes but dynamic day wear dresses. Celebrities have sharp eyes and know exactly what they want.”
Being well-turned-out is important, nobody wants to look shabby. And the best thing about this fashion revolution according to stylist Mohit Rai, the man behind Vani Kapoor’s look in the film Befikre says, “Even though they maybe young and new in the field, these designers, apart from being talented, have studied fashion and know their craft. You are now getting good quality designer clothes at much cheaper prices compared to couture labels,” says Mohit. Among the younger lot, Mohit likes designers like Rimzim Dadu (her clothes are very conceptual, though not always easy to pull off, but statement variety), Nikhil Thampi (Sakshi Dhoni was spotted in this label) because he understands a woman’s body, and his personal favourite is Arjun Saluja, who makes gender fluid clothes.
Options, Options and more Options
The best part about having so many options to choose from is that the price tags vary too, and designer wear has actually come within the easy reach of working professionals and girls who love fashion. Everyone can actually afford most of the new labels that the stars so often sport. “Today you can even get something from Anita Dongre at a Fab India price,” says Mohit. Sophie Choudry, who is well-turned-out for all occasions, puts together her own look and doesn’t rely on a stylist. “I follow fashion shows, Instagram and fellow artists who have worn something that I have liked. That’s how I spot the designer,” she says. She likes clean lines and well-tailored clothes. Among the new designers on the block. Her favourite labels are Anushree Reddy, Arpita Mehta, Amit G.T., Dhruv Kapoor, Papa Don’t Preach and Huemn.