The hills are alive
A tour of the city of Salzburg is a lovely combination of nostalgia and discovery for The Sound of Music lovers.
Let’s start at the very beginning. A year after we got married, my husband and I planned our first European holiday. After much research, we felt Switzerland and Austria would be a good experience to begin with. What was most exciting was that Salzburg would be in the itinerary, and the obvious highpoint was the possibility of visiting some of the iconic sites where The Sound of Music was shot! As kids, one of our favourite treats would be to watch the film over and over. When we didn’t do that, we’d play the audio cassette and sing along to every song.
The Story of the Von Trapp Family Singers, written by Maria Von Trapp in 1949, first premiered as a Broadway musical The Sound of Music by Rodgers & Hammerstein. The resounding success of the play spurred the making of the movie with the same name in 1964. Shot in the captivating and charming Salzburg and its neighbouring areas, the movie went on to win five Oscars and has been one of the most popular movies of all times.
On reaching Salzburg we found out about The Sound of Music tour. Panorama Tours had an option of a 4-5 hour tour which covered some of the key sites from the movie. Included, were some of the historical and architectural landmarks of the city and stops at the picturesque Lake District of Salzburg. The meeting point was at Mirabelplatz. To say I couldn’t contain my excitement would be more than just an understatement! I couldn’t wait to board the bus and for the tour to begin.
Our guide gave us a brief about the movie, the key sites where it was shot, a little background about the real Von Trapp family and how parts of the movie were dramatised from the real story. As the bus got on its way, the tour guide played songs from the movie. I definitely didn’t need any urging and sang along, transported right into the world that the movie had created for us.
Our first stop was Schloss Leopoldskron, located on the banks of the lake Leopoldskroner. This property and the adjoining grounds were used in a lot of the exterior settings of the movie. The guide reminded us of the scene in which the Von Trapp kids and Maria are in a boat which capsizes in the lake: The crew apparently had a near mishap while shooting this scene. It seems Kym Karath, who played Gretel in the movie, was petrified of water and was to be caught by Julie Andrews (Maria) when the boat capsized. However, they fell on opposite sides of the boat and it was quite a fiasco! Some of the sections of Schloss Leopoldskron were recreated on the movie sets (like the ballroom and gates that led to the lake).
Stop two was the Hellbrunn Palace gardens; this is where the famous gazebo from the song 16 going on 17 is. We were told that Charmian Carr, who played Liesel, slipped and fell, injuring herself while shooting here. The scene between Maria and the Captain as they decided ‘I must have done something good’ was also shot in this gazebo.
We were back in the bus for the next leg, and as we passed Nonnberg Abbey, Alleluia came on over the speakers, right on cue! The abbey is where Maria Von Trapp was a postulant. The abbey does not allow visitors, although you can go right up to the gates and explore the surroundings.
Heading towards the next stop, we were in Salzburg’s Lake District. A quick photo-stop gives you sweeping views of Lakes Fischl and Wolfgang. The picture postcard setting has been part of many of the movies’ shots. Then, we were in the charming village of Mondsee.
St. Michael’s Basilica, the church where the wedding of Maria and the Captain was shot, is located here. We were given plenty of time to explore the church and the village. With its dark wooden panelling and impressive altar, I was instantly transported to the wedding scene, in which Maria walks towards the altar where a very dapper Captain Von Trapp — Christopher Plummer — waits for his bride. I could almost hear the church organ playing Maria Reprise.
We found a street-side café and decided that apple strudel was a must have! I hummed My Favourite Things as I bit into the crusty pastry with a filling of apple and flavours of cinnamon. I picked up an edelweiss flower for my sister, a tiny reminder of evenings when she and my dad sang Edelweiss in duet. After soaking in the charms of this village it was time to head back to the bus. As it wound its way back to Salzburg city, through rolling fields, the Alps bordering the horizon and lakes, the hills did fill my heart with the sound of music!
Back in Salzburg, we were dropped off at the Mirabelle Gardens, where most of Do-Re-Mi was shot. We strolled along the garden paths and sat by the Pegasus fountain, and the tour ended.
For dinner that night, I had a schnitzel, realising that it came along with mashed potatoes and not the noodles as suggested in the song My Favourite Things. But I guess that’s allowed!
Salzburg, with its quintessential charm, cathedrals and tiny cafés had made its way into our hearts. We visited it again last year, and if anything we loved it even more. Next, on top of my travel wish-list is a visit to Salzburg during Christmas.