Memories Woven In Priceless Heirloom

Heirloom sarees are all about family legacy and memories. Be it one’s mother mother-in-law’s or grandma's saree, the age-old traditional threads are emotions intertwined together. Traditional sarees especially the Kanjeevarams, Benarasi, Patolas, Paithani, Gharchola, Jamevar, and Parsi Gara etc are cherished and passed on as heirlooms to the next generation. Today women restore and recycle these sarees and wear them for special occasions with pride and joy. Modern brides also prefer to wear heirlooms and add a special touch to their bridal attire. Traditional saree is an essence of our heritage, women now look forward to reusing the heirloom pieces which are dear to them. Today, few textile experts and designers can revive the delicate weaves and motifs, restore a saree or recycle it depending on the state of the saree.

Heirloom Restorations

The sentiment of a saree that is passed onto generations is priceless. Saree is a personal piece that has its own little family story woven into the repertoire that signifies beliefs rooted in our culture. “Handwoven sarees like Banaras, Kanjeevarams, Patolas, old Parsi Garas, and others have a higher emotional attachment. These are valued as jewels that find their way straight into the treasure chest of our hearts and have numerous memories and anecdotes attached to them. As an aesthete for textiles, I respect and profess the sustainability of an heirloom," says Sagrika Rai, founder and creative director of Warp ’n Weft, a designer store in Mumbai that specialises in Benarasis and handloom. “First-generation heirlooms and second-generation heirlooms can be fragile but may have the strength to be re-purposed if kept with love and immense care,” says Sagrika. She receives requests to restore the saree where the sentimental value is higher than the price. “Clients walk in with emotion, hope in their eyes, and trust in artistic dexterity. Firstly, the expert karigars check the strength of the textile and how much handling can be offered. I try to retain the originality by using delicate and aesthetic applique methods and sensitive play of combining old and new textiles so it may pass onto one more leap of generation. We have used techniques of hand appliques, and patchwork in original and completely new forms of presentation of old patterns, not just with sarees but even lehengas for many a bride,” she explains. Many times, if the textile is fragile and rare, Sagrika encourages the owners to reweave the design itself. She has restored her husband’s Nani’s saree that she received as a blessing at her wedding. “I have revived the stunning real zari (silver weave) on aqua blue fabric. I used a sheer white Kora silk with a geometric weave to bring out the delicate blue ‘phooldar leher’ from the body of the old saree. I continue to wear it with much pride and joy,” she says.

Reviving Heritage Weaves

Depending on the state of the saree restoration and revival is possible. “We first inspect the strength of the base fabric and see if it’s compromised. We look at the surface work/weave that can be salvaged and transferred to a fresh and sturdier base textile, while maintaining aesthetic sensibility and heritage value, polishing the zari to revamp its lustre,” says Kolkata-based textile revivalist Swati Agarwal of the ‘Swati and Sunaina Gold‘ label. Sunaina Jalan and Swati Agarwal are into creating handloom saris worthy of inheritance. Women get borders from their grandmothers’ or great-grandmothers’ sarees to stitch them onto new fabrics to create something that is new but carries memories. “If there is a small hole then a delicate rafu (mending technique) can conceal it. If the fabric has given way, and the antique sari is beyond restoration, it can be cut and used as borders on other saris, or fused at the back with a stronger fabric. If the colour has blotches, it can be re-dyed—but that could sometimes make the fabric weaker, so the risk of wearing out remains. If the fabric is giving away then we can put organza beneath it,” she explains.

Swati has restored a saree which was part of her mother-in-law’s trousseau. The saree, almost 55 years old, has zari and does not show any oxidisation. “To keep the saree from disintegration we tacked organza fabric with tiny stitches all over the saree. This kind of restoration allows for the saree to be worn despite being fragile,” says Swati. The designer duo is dedicated to preserving India’s heritage. Swati’s business and research skills along with Sunaina’s creativity, have resulted in reviving an art that has now become a lucrative career for the next generation of weavers too. Swati and Sunaina help revive some of the rare handweaves in Banaras, with the use of pure zari. They have the certification of such zari (98.5 % silver and plated with 24 Carat gold). They use ancient techniques to recreate vintage designs.

Recycle In Style

There is something special about heirlooms as they have vintage charm, and are filled with sentimental value. The traditional saree remains an all-time favourite choice. However, the modern woman today combines heirloom sarees with their contemporary counterparts as well. “The modern woman drapes heirloom sarees and balances it with her new style. Preferring heirlooms is also about being sustainable and honouring the traditions but with a contemporary touch. Whenever I lay my eyes on a Kanjeevaram or Benarasi that belongs to my mom, my emotions are stirred,” says Dr Kinnari Choudhri from Karnal. She enjoys wearing heirloom sarees and often recycles them. “One of my favourites is the Kanjeevaram saree of my mother which has found its way to my wardrobe as a parting gift. The gorgeous contrast of mustard with maroon border did not require much designing as placing them neatly on a new fabric brought all attention to its real gold zari. With the help of a designer, I often recycle the borders of heirloom sarees and make classy dupattas from the silk sarees.” Dr Kinnari treasures her sarees to pass them to her daughter. “The future generation must know that heirloom sarees spell sustainability, have memories, and deserve to be revered,” adds Dr Kinnari.

Saree Care Tips

• Wear sarees often as natural yarns breathe

• Change the folds every few months

• Keep sarees protected from moisture, sunlight, and perfumes

• Keep sarees in soft muslin cloths, not plastic bags

• Store heirloom sarees vertically on a plastic rod covered with tissue paper inside out (Wrong side should be on top to protect zari from weathering)

• Sun sarees once a year in mild sun and let them air overnight after wearing them before putting them away

• Keep silica gel pouches in the cupboard away from the sarees

We first inspect the strength of the base fabric and see if it’s compromised.”— Swati Agarwal, textile revivalist, Kolkata

First-generation heirlooms and second-generation heirlooms can be fragile but may have the strength to be re-purposed if kept with love and immense care.” — Sagrika Rai, Founder & Creative Director, Warp 'n Weft

Preferring heirlooms is also about being sustainable and honouring the traditions but with a contemporary touch.” — Dr Kinnari Choudhri, Karnal

Vintage Charm

• Sonam Kapoor Ahuja recently revealed on social media how garments carry significance beyond their material and design. Sonam wore her mother's 35-year-old Gharchola in Gujarati style for a friend’s wedding. Her saree had a white Bandhani design, lovely border, and mirror embellishments on the hem.

• Isha Ambani wore a lehenga designed by Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla for her wedding. She wore a cherished heirloom piece of red bandhani (35 years old) belonging to her mother. It seamlessly blended into her bridal lehenga as one of the two dupattas.

• Kareena Kapoor Khan for her wedding wore a sharara worn by her mother-in-law (Sharmila Tagore) for her own nikah in 1962. The tissue rust-orange kurta, a matching dupatta embroidered heavily in gold, and shararas with a contrasting, mint green border had intricate zardozi and gota work. The bridal piece was restored and embellished by revivalist and designer Ritu Kumar.

• Yami Gautam wore her mother's 33-year-old traditional maroon silk saree for her wedding. She added a red dupatta that was gifted by her maternal grandmother.

• Swara Bhasker wore her mother's 40-year-old red bridal saree that had a delicate zari border. She teamed it with an ivory blouse with elegant embroidery on the sleeves.

• Sania Mirza for her wedding with cricketer Shoaib Malik in 2011 (now separated) wore a red saree that her mother had worn during her nikah 33 years ago.