Not many of us depend on Indian garments to survive the cold weather, but here’s the twist. A lot of Indian textiles and handcrafted fabrics like wool, Kinkhab silk, Mashru silk, brocade, tweed and khadi are the best options for those who love all things local.
Think local costumes of Himachal, North-East, and Kashmir, where local weavers and artisans use home-grown fabrics to prepare for harsh winters. The quilted cotton vests from Rajasthan and Gujarat, heavy phulkari from Punjab or the rich Kanchipuram silk sari from Tamil Nadu — there’s a unique traditional wear to celebrate the cold in every corner of the country.
Wonder wool
Note that Indian winter fabrics like velvet, brocade and pure silks are not only for staying warm, but also the best as weddings and luxurious occasion wear. Designer Gautam Gupta of the label Asha Gautam reminds us that India is a country of diverse textiles and although silk is very famous across the land, we also produce high-quality wool. “From Gujarat to Himachal and Uttarakhand, there are many states trying to revive wool as a yarn in different ways to make it desirable for fashionable winters,” says Gautam. “Shawls are a great choice to style and glam up the traditional look. Wool kurtas from Jammu with Kashida hand embroidery are timeless investments. Also, wool shawls, stoles and jackets from Kutch with traditional geometric weaving patterns, Kashmiri shawls in Pashmina and Jamawar and Kullu shawls from Himachal are the best options we have.”
To flaunt Indian textiles in cold weather, Gautam recommends brocade pantsuits, velvet dupattas, Nehru jackets made of silk, wool and khadi. He adds, “Women can wear a silk lehenga and a blouse and pair it with velvet dupattas to feel warm. The silk and wool mixed fabrics are great choices for winters. Opt for the redesigned silhouettes with new patterns and motifs.
Stunning in saree
For women who can’t find enough reasons to don their heavy silks or heirloom garments, winter is a brilliant excuse to wrap themselves up in the luxurious fabrics. Anirudh Kankatala, director at Kankatala Textiles, says, “One of the best Indian textiles for cold winters is the Pashmina fabric from Kashmir. The other fabrics that can be used are pure Banarasi and Kanchipuram silk saris. They’re usually woven in silk with Zari brocades and look stunning. The fabrics can be made into kurtas, dresses, gowns or just blouses if one is considering repurposing it.” According to Khushi Shah of Shanti Banaras, the classic Indian winter clothing has to be a silk saree or a suit. In fact, she recommends dark and offbeat hues for a soothing winter wardrobe. “You can even layer up your silk saree with androgynous long brocade jackets or hand-embroidered pashmina shawls as an exquisite addition to the look. Alternatively, opt for a long sleeve and collar-necked blouse, which would look exceptional to go out in and is an impeccable fit for the season, states Khushi. “A velvet sari also adds to the glamour, giving you a royal touch while keeping you warm.”
Khushi considers velvets, silk, satin, brocade and jacquard the go-to fabrics for winter. “They’re really flattering on the body and give a luxurious appearance,” she adds.
Mix and match
To create a sustainable winter wardrobe with a fashion-forward approach, experts suggest blending in timeless style and heritage pieces to create signature looks. They also recommend investing in corduroy block-printed kurtas and handmade shawls — a versatile piece for an Indian ensemble.
According to Dipali Patwa, group head of brand and community at Fabindia, “Indian shawls are elegant and timeless and can be layered with any garment. They can also be styled in many ways, making them a must-have this season. Whether you buy gorgeous wool weaves or soft pashminas, crewel embroideries, or gotta-patti, choose unique colours, techniques and styles to stay trendy.” Dipali also points out that the colour palette for this season highlights indigo blues, earthy teals and greens, terracotta, charcoal greys, and muted mauves with a splash of red and black.
