They say the bad press is also good for publicity, and French luxury brand Balenciaga has no qualms about thriving on controversies. From the brand that launched trash bag purses and ripped sneakers, the latest offering is a “luxurious wrap-around towel skirt” for $925 USD (which costs roughly Rs 77,000 INR). As expected, the online response for pre-ordering the Spring 2024 towel skirt got the brand massive backlash in the form of memes and trolling. While Swedish brand IKEA ridiculed the price point with their own cheaper unisex towel post, Instagram’s fashion watchdog Diet Prada, called it “viral clickbaity fashion”.
Undoubtedly, such fashion gimmicks make for good publicity but could it also damage the brand value? Not when fashion is used as a “form of amusement, fun, and artistic expression,” opines Sahib Singh Bhatia, creative director of luxury label Amaaré. He says, “Fashion is a versatile form of creativity that can encompass playful and experimental elements, which can resonate strongly with younger generations. So it shouldn’t be always taken seriously, I think such gimmicks elevate the brand value as they have the capability to sell something so basic for such a high price. Balenciaga, among other fashion houses, has indeed pushed boundaries with unconventional designs like destroyed sneakers and items like the trash pouch handbag. These creations can generate buzz and contribute to brand recognition by challenging traditional perceptions of fashion.”
Couture controversy:
Not just Balenciaga, brands like Miu Miu and American designer Willy Chavarria were also trolled recently for launching controversial designer underpants priced at exorbitant rates.
While Miu Miu’s $5,600 sequin and wool panties and the $1,100 corduroy panties with belt loops were massively criticized for ugly design and uncomfortable choice of fabric, designer Willy Chavarria’s recently launched “dirty underwear range” were shamed for poverty couture. His latest campaign features dirty, torn vests and unwashed briefs with sweaty marks around the waistband depicting dirtcore, which didn’t go well with his fans and got him major flak.
Brand gimmicks were once successful in drawing attention to brands, but with social media trolling such controversial ideas face challenges with today's discerning Gen Z audience. Aastha Mahtani, founder of the fashion label Tao Paris, explains, “The GenZ consumers seek authenticity, real products, sustainability, and relatable experiences. Balenciaga’s last attempt with such a gimmick failed miserably, gathering a lot of negativity around it. In my opinion, any buzz around a brand, good or bad, does get noticed and can boost sales, but relying only on such gimmicks isn’t the way forward in today's market, which values authenticity. Brands need to build a genuine connection today to thrive in the market and resonate with their audience.”
Marketing wars:
Fashion in today’s space is all about experimenting, and good brands have been all about catching trends and styles that truly resonate with their customers. Citing the example of the “towel skirt” Rahul Dayama, head of marketing at Urbanic India, mentions, “It is a statement piece that challenges the norms and conventions of fashion, and as a reflection of the brand’s identity and vision. Fashion is more than just a utilitarian act, it's a canvas for creativity, a means of self-expression to craft your narrative and to showcase your natural charm. I don’t feel that consumers who are paying high prices for luxury items do not care about the controversies as that consumer is purchasing not only the brand reliability/ quality but also the image attached to that luxury brand’s name. These kinds of products increase the brand’s aspirational value in the mind of the consumer which can positively impact the sales figures. In some cases, brands can also derive sales from its low-cost products.”
Online validation:
As fashion's ability to blend creativity, art, and commercial value, the concept of selling basic items at high prices is often associated with the idea of luxury and exclusivity. The influence of social media on consumer behaviour is a dynamic aspect of modern marketing and consumerism. Explaining the influence of social media, Sahib Singh Bhatia says, “Consumers come from diverse backgrounds and have varying preferences and motivations when it comes to their purchases. Some consumers might prefer to stick with classic or well-known brands, while others might seek attention or recognition through their purchases, especially among younger generations like Gen Z and millennials. Social media plays a significant role in shaping consumer behaviour today. Many individuals enjoy showcasing their lifestyles, possessions, and experiences on social platforms. Sharing high-end or unique purchases can be a way for some people to express their identity, status and garner attention from their peers.”
Cruel Couture:
When the entire luxury world is undergoing an ethical makeover, Louis Vuitton is under scanner for promoting an astronomically priced ‘Speedy Bag’ made of crocodile leather for a whopping million dollar! Created by Pharrell Williams, the $1,000,000 Speedy is apparently sold on a made-to-order basis, the bag comes in yellow, blue, red, green and brown colours. Pop star Rihanna, who is face of the promotional campaign of the sunshine yellow Speedy bag, is also being targeted by activists and animal lovers for supporting cruel practices in fashion.
