Lingerie has been meant to stay hidden from the public eye, no matter how fanciful, whimsical or even naughty the design. Every effort was made to conceal those tell-tale lines that marked out the contours of innerwear. But fashion has now flipped the script. Seamless T-shirt bras are on their way out, making room for lace, sheer, and mesh alternatives.
Even M&S, long known for its practical lingerie, is embracing a more sensual aesthetic for spring. The retailer, which holds 38.2% of the UK bra market and sold over 20 million bras in 2023, is seeing a surge in demand from customers under 30, who now account for nearly a third of sales.
At a preview of its new collection, most recently, a £10 lace bra with bow detailing was highlighted as a standout piece. Soozie Jenkinson, M&S’s head of lingerie design, notes the shift: “For years, it was all about the T-shirt bra. Now, lace is making a comeback.” While these bras aren’t explicitly designed to be worn exposed, their rise in popularity marks a clear departure from undergarments meant to disappear beneath clothing.
At British lingerie brand Bluebella, sheer black bras with scalloped edging (£44) and mesh styles embroidered with florals (£39) are among the bestsellers. Even its basic line leans into the trend, with lace and mesh bras in bold shades of orange and electric blue.
Emily Bendell, Bluebella’s founder and CEO, sees the shift as part of a broader redefinition of practicality. “We believe a bra isn’t just a functional garment, it’s a fashion statement,” she says. “More and more women are treating their bras as layering pieces, intentionally letting them peek through as part of their outfit.”
Dior’s delicate sheers and Givenchy’s architectural bralettes made lingerie shed its anonymity. Sydney Sweeney, Scarlett Johansson, and Natalie Portman have all stepped out in dresses that let a peek of their bras show at the neckline. Even in political circles, it’s had its moment. At Trump’s inauguration in January, Lauren Sánchez chose to let her white lace bra show through her white Alexander McQueen blazer, turning what was once considered a fashion mishap into a statement.
So, why this shift? Ayushi Dewan, fashion expert and owner of Aadews, says, “A bra speaks volumes about the wearer’s mood. A sheer, lace-trimmed bralette peeking through a blazer isn’t just an outfit choice but is more like a mindset.”
The surge of intricate lace, bold hues, and architectural silhouettes in lingerie collections signals a cultural reposition. A structured bralette or a delicately layered corset speaks of venery.
“The demand for lingerie-as-outerwear is soaring,” says Dr Kiruba Devi, Head of Category and Sourcing at Zivame. “For too long, a visible bra strap was seen as a wardrobe malfunction. It’s a power move now. A mesh-layered balconette under a silk blouse or a satin bra worn unapologetically as a top; it’s about styling lingerie with intent, rather than obligation.”
The change signals an aesthetic reset in the perception of muliebrity. Prudish Victorians may have referred to innerwear as ‘unmentionables,’ but that’s a far cry from how they are viewed today. “Lingerie is a love letter to oneself, and women are finally signing it with a flourish,” says Disha Shah, Founder of DiAi Designs. “Jewellery, when styled correctly, enhances that sentiment — it draws attention to what was once meant to be concealed.”
According to Shah, layered necklaces are an effortless way to highlight a delicate lace bralette or a structured corset. “Longer lengths, like a 20-inch chain, create an elegant frame that beautifully complements deep necklines,” she notes. “Even a single, minimal piece — a solitaire pendant or a sleek lariat necklace — reconciles intrepidity with delicacy.”
Earrings, too, play a role in elevating lingerie-inspired styling. “Ear cuffs and climbers add an edge, making an intimate look feel intentional rather than incidental,” Shah explains. “It’s about celebrating both the intricate craftsmanship of lingerie and the personal expression that jewellery allows. Why should something so exquisite be hidden away?”
