Freshly-ground masalas and succulent meat curries have been the calling card at a military canteen since the 17th century. Legend has it that Shahaji Bhonsle and later Shivaji’s armies were served at these robust canteens, which were also places for reconnaissance. In Karnataka, the warring armies of Tipu Sultan, and the British got their sustenance travelling long distances at these iconic canteens. They are famed even today for delicious local morsels with no frills, just gusto. Yet today, when the Oorean wants a bite of military oota, it’s an endeavour that has to be a well-planned as you have to travel far to Shivaji or Naidu Military Hotel, not something one can do often given the distance, male-domination or lack of hygiene.
When ThinkTanc’s man of the hour, Amit Roy mulled over his favourite soul food, he decided to address these concerns. He and a couple of friends took the centuries-old legacy forward in the newly opened military canteen chain - Royanna, a Zams Hospitality initiative! It’s on Brigade Road, a tiny walk-in with a few tables upstairs, and barstools downstairs where the Old Indiana’s was. Roy also has a 60 seater at R.T. Nagar which comes equipped with a central kitchen. The freshness, masalas, taste and simplicity are unmistakable, yet Royanna does more. With the taste buds already on overdrive, you await the order, and as it’s pre-cooked, it appears in a jiffy from the open kitchen! Yay. Simple, in a contemporary setting, walk in and order from a tiny menu, anticipating the joy of military food in a hip canteen, hygienic, without the need of a planning guide. Awesome Roy-anna!
From being a travelling army’s answer to sumptuous meaty food, it’s now the local foodie’s haven - fried chicken kebab, mutton chops, chicken pulao with that very senses-opening green chilli chicken! Wallop local fare in a matter of minutes (those who love the cuisine would agree)!
Prop yourself up on a bar stool, or sit at a granite table, under lampshades made of terracotta, and order everything! It also has the cleanest sink you’ll see at such a canteen! We started with chicken kebabs, the only item fried on the spot. Good, crunchy and taste-wise, on the money. We went a bit overboard, blame it on the joy of finding a cute military canteen in the CBD - kheema balls, soft and delicious,
Royanna’s special chicken with a hint of mustard in succulent drumsticks, chilli chicken swimming in green chilli gravy, taste specs were wow… definitely must-have. The mutton chops had juicy meat falling off the bone, subtle and flavourful with chapatis… Delicate masala, and not swimming in oil. The pulav was simple, spiced well, with fresh raita. We would have loved some donne biryani, but as Amit Roy says, “We decided to keep it North Karnataka style.” A hot glass of rasam with a punch of tang and tast. We wanted to swig a majjige which was sadly over, as the space serves ready dishes. Roy is now ready with a central kitchen that replenishes the dishes every three hours, so you won’t get morning’s oota, but fresh plates every time. We had gone looking for mudde… to dunk into the mutton chops. Sadly those aren’t on the menu yet, but they’re coming soon, promises Roy-anna now that the central kitchen is fully functional, enough for 5,000 meals a day!
“This canteen has been on my mind for the past few years, to give people military canteen food in a easy to reach location, not dinghy, which is hygienic and women can also walk in easily,” says Amit Roy, adding, “We serve only North Karnataka style food, with one anomaly, the Andhra style chilli chicken which has become a staple for many. The master chef Srinivas and I tasted close to 100 biryanis, and I travelled to military hotels all over, from Nellore, Salem, Thalappakatti, etc. For two months, we tweaked the pulav. The idea was to give a spicey flavourful trail instead of the clichéd spicy food. All our dishes are freshly made after months of tasting. The Brigade Road space is small which is why we have not added mudde, etc, but now with our central kitchen, we will be adding much more.”
The team has chicken and mutton meals, and some starters already on the RT Nagar menu, and will soon be serving a sumptuous breakfast of idli and mutton chops, or chicken curry, paya and mudde at the smaller canteen on Brigade Road too. “We are also opening three more outlets, but only once I am sure we are ready,” says Amit. Easy on the pocket, this military canteen makes us want to say, “Aye Aye Sir… errr… Anna!”
