Spicing Up Summers: The Legacy of Avakaya Pickle in Telugu Homes
Summers bring with them a sense of nostalgia, despite the scorching heat. As kids, we yearned for summers for more reasons than one. Besides the point that summer vacation was always a big relief, the empty roads, visiting granny’s house for holidays, playing till we ran out of breath, and catching up with cousins were among other boxes to be ticked summer after summer. And who could resist the temptation of mango milkshake or the tangy pickle?
For Telugus, mango pickle, particularly the Avakaya, is an emotion that brings to mind fond memories of childhood not to mention the comforting taste of home. Nothing else brought home the flavours of summer every year more than mango and avakaya. The pickle-making process is a blend of art and science, involving the selection of raw mangoes, and adding the right measure of spices.
The very thought of biting into the fiery avakaya made with raw mangoes with a blend of spices, including the mustard and chilli powder, makes your mouth water. And in South Indian homes, no meal is considered complete without curd rice and pickle. Of course, we are more than happy to have pickles with dosas and chapatis too. So it is not surprising to find the fiery avakaya packed into porcelain jars in the kitchen shelves of most South Indian households. It is a way of preserving the seasonal produce for the entire year. For those living abroad, pickles bring memories of home.
Pickles are integral to Indian cuisine and very much a part of the dining experience. Every state in India follows a different pickling method, palatable to the local taste. South Indian households make pickles in large quantities and share them with friends and families, another tradition. But pickling is no mean feat. It requires understanding of the quantity, ingredients and also a great deal of patience.
The art of making avakaya
It all starts with the selection of the unripe mangoes. They are later washed, dried, and cut into pieces. The spices used include turmeric, red chili powder, mustard powder and fenugreek seeds—which have to be used in the right quantities. The cut mangoes are mixed with salt and left to marinate to let the mangoes absorb the flavors. Then heated and cooled groundnut oil is poured over the mangoes not only to preserve the pickle but also enhance its taste.
At the Culinary Lounge in Hyderabad, Geetha Bhascker, an actor, educationist and a culinary enthusiast, demonstrated the traditional method of mixing avakaya pickle. Organized by Onamalu, a word which in Telugu stands for rudiments, the pickle-mixing ceremony celebrated the Telugu culinary heritage and showcased the process of pickle-making while highlighting its importance in Telugu culture. Making the atmosphere more lively were the women who came all the way from Siddipet who captivated guests with their Naatu Dappu performance.
Geetha Bhascker, a familiar face on the Telugu celluloid, is a passionate cook. Over 60 and yet, her dedication towards preserving the traditional recipes is awe-inspiring. She shared her knowledge on the traditional pickle-making process. The crowd that gathered there was thrilled not only to learn the art of making avakaya, but also to sample the avakaya annam placed in their hands by Geetha Bhascker. Geetha praised the efforts of Onamalu, which is an initiative to document the cultural heritage and culinary traditions of the Telugus. Driven by their passion for food, the team has been travelling across the length and breadth of the state, researching, documenting and recording age-old recipes and traditions. The intent is to create exhaustive archives to make sure these culinary practices are not lost to time.
Film producer Swapna Dutt, who was also present on the occasion said, “Avakaya making has been so much a part of my growing up. It was a family affair with every one participating. I heard so much about Geetha gari Avakaya parties from Tharun. I am glad I finally got to be a part of it. I thank Onamaalu for inviting me.”.
The culture of making avakaya pickle is a practice revered by the Telugus and passed down through generations. The tradition of involving all the family members in pickle mixing is not just an annual ritual, it is also a cherished legacy. We often hear Gen Zs and Millennials who are hooked to K-dramas, rave about how Koreans have turned kimchi into a family activity. Just so you know, we have that practice in our homes too, for generations now! It’s time for you to get involved and carry forward the legacy.
