Discovering Maldivian Culinary Heritage with Chef Mohamed Niyaz at Kaagé

In an exclusive conversation with Deccan Chronicle, Mohamed Niyaz, the Maldivian chef at Kaagé, a speciality restaurant at Varu by Atmosphere, discusses the Maldivian culinary traditions. Chef Niyaz shares his passion for local ingredients, the vital role of farmers and suppliers, and the resort's upcoming initiatives to elevate Maldivian cuisine on a global stage.

1. Chef Mohamed Niyaz, how do you source ingredients for traditional Maldivian dishes considering the ban on fishing and aquatic animals in the Maldives?

As Kaagé is our signature restaurant where we could showcase our Naturally Maldivian heritage, I use only fishes like Tuna, Mackerel, and Mahi Mahi from Maldives to bring out the authenticity of Maldivian cuisine, a staple ingredient we have been familiar with since childhood.

2. What makes your heirloom recipes special?

It’s special because it’s been passed on by my family for generations and some recipes are hard to bring out the taste from, especially for people who are not part of the family. I believe the recipes are special because through the dishes I’m able to present not only the delicacy but also the taste and insight of my own family.

3. What are some staple ingredients in Maldivian cuisine, and how do you incorporate them into your dishes?

Reef fish, tuna, and coconut are some staple ingredients that play a major role in the Maldivian diet, I use the ingredients in many ways to introduce the Maldivian cuisine to our beloved guests in a positive way so that they can enjoy and appreciate our culture.

4. How do you maintain the authenticity of traditional Maldivian dishes while adapting to modern tastes and dietary preferences?

To fit to the modern standards, I prepare the traditional dishes in a creative way like reducing the spice level and making the dishes milder and smoother on the palate. The presentation of the dish is also made aesthetically without changing the original recipe, as a result, the interest in the dish increases. As for the dietary requirements, I tend to minimize the usage of lactose, and gluten, and utilize more millet, rice, etc. I create similar dishes for the guests with special dietary requirements.

5. Coconut rice is a common side dish in Maldivian cuisine. What's the significance of coconut in Maldivian cooking?

Coconut plays a sufficiently important role in Maldivian cooking. It is used in many ways, for example, freshly grated coconut in Mashuni, Coconut flavored bread called Huniliroshi, thick coconut cream is used for flavorful rice dishes and gravies, the foundation of sweets in our cuisine is coconut. So, the significance of coconut in our cuisine is innumerable.

6. Row Havadhu (a traditional Maldivian breakfast dish) is a favorite among locals and tourists alike. What's its cultural significance?

Row havaadhu is a dish that is enjoyable for both locals and tourists because it’s a light meal. Breakfast is the most important meal and eating too much may lead to discomfort but row havaadhu is a dish that is flavorful and easy to digest and could leave you feeling just right and satisfied.

7. How do you pay homage to the rich culinary heritage of the Maldives through your cooking, and what inspiration do you draw from traditional recipes served to royalty?

Cooking is something that has been going on for generations, but it was mostly common for women, which intrigued me to learn from many great chefs like my own mother and aunts. To show my respect towards my culture I try my best to bring out the original taste by using the techniques that have been used for many years. The recipes used to serve the royalties were not common recipes among the average family so making the dishes is quite challenging, which is the reason I make them often. Once you taste the royal dishes you can feel and taste the difference, which also shows that Maldivian culture is a rich and diverse culture.

8. In Maldivian culture, sharing meals with the community, and sitting on the floor, is an important tradition. How do you incorporate this aspect into the dining experience at Varu by Atmosphere Resort?

the setting of our dining area is quite modern, so we are currently unable to give our guests the full experience of sitting down and sharing meals, moreover many guests wear modern outfits which are not suitable for ground sitting; instead, we explain and educate them about our culture and traditional ways, which intrigues our guests. Occasionally our resort conducts special traditional dining events, where we include community type food and service.

9. Could you talk about the innovative ways you have adapted traditional Maldivian recipes to suit modern tastes and dietary preferences?

To adapt accordingly to the current trends and modern style we try to recreate our dishes in different ways without altering the original taste so that it will please and satisfy our international guests. As for the dietary requirements I use alternative ingredients against restricted ingredients; so that, it helps to maintain the taste of the traditional dishes served.

10. How do you ensure sustainability and eco-friendliness in your sourcing and cooking practices, given the Maldives' focus on marine conservation?

We follow sustainable practices at Kaage. We are green globes certified. We ensure fishes of certain ranges are caught so that we can promote fish breeding and retain the marine population. 100% of our raw ingredients are sourced locally with local Govt. approved suppliers.

11. What roles do local farmers and suppliers play in providing ingredients for your kitchen, and how do you support them?

They indeed play a crucial role for us. Our suppliers ensure great quality products are delivered to our kitchen, which helps to improve the quality of our dishes as well. To show our support to them we help to promote their business and provide continuous feedback.12. Are there any upcoming projects or initiatives to promote Maldivian cuisine and culinary heritage at Varu by Atmosphere Resort or in the wider community?

We are currently undergoing a few projects at Varu by Atmosphere, our management will share details when completed. We will promote the Maldivian cuisine and culture at an international level positively.