Kneading nostalgia: Dum Ke Roat, baking up centuries of Hyderabadi heritage

As the Islamic calendar ushers in the month of Muharram, Hyderabad's streets come alive with the aroma of a beloved delicacy - Dum Ke Roat. The month of Muharram in the Islamic calendar is marked by the delicious aroma of Dum Ke Roat on Hyderabad’s streets. Wheat flour, semolina, oil, sugar honey, ghee, salt and milk products all go into making this traditional biscuit that is loved by the people of Hyderabad.

For centuries the arrival of Dum Ke Roat has not only been a delight to look forward to every year but it also comes with a lot of historical significance. “Legend has it that once Mir Osman Ali Khan, the seventh Nizam offered Roat to the Nala-e-Mubarak Alam near Charminar praying for his grandson Mukarram Jah Bahadur’s protection. Today too this ritual continues as people break Roat on Alam and distribute it to others as their vow towards the safety of their loved ones,” said Mohammed Raees, a resident of old Hyderabad. "Shias provide food, water, and Roat to the processions as part of their good deeds. Since everyone participates in the procession, arrangements are made to ensure that all the people are well-fed and hydrated," he added.

In the past Hyderabadis would prepare the dough at home and take it to nearby bakeries to be baked in their ovens. Though there are still some who follow this practice; however many prefer going to popular outlets such as Subhan Bakery, Karachi Bakery, Pista House Bakery, Rose Bakers and Needs Biscuits for genuine tastes of Dum Ke Roat.

Subhan Bakery owner Syed Irfan, a connoisseur of advanced baking techniques says, “The outlet started selling Dum-ke-Roat in 1971. Hundreds flock to the store every day to feast on the seasonal flavour.” Irfan says that they use pure ghee for the preparation and the Roat contains milk, khoya, almonds, cashew nuts, Zafran (saffron), and raisins.‘Dum ke Roat’ is a crispy cookie, almost the size of a tea saucer, prepared with wheat flour, sooji (semolina), vegetable oil, sugar, honey, clarified butter, salt, cardamom, and milk products. “It is purely vegetarian. We don’t use eggs to prepare it,” added Syed Irfan.

Pista House Hyderabad, known for its diverse culinary offerings including haleem, biryani, zafrani chai, and delectable snacks, has recently added 'Zaffrani Dum Ke Roat' to its menu, expanding its array of baked goods.

Md. Abdul Mohsi, Director of Pista House, shares his enthusiasm for sharing Hyderabad's traditional delicacies with the world. "Pista House has been presenting the traditional delicacies of Hyderabad to the world. Dum Ke Roat by Pista House is being sent all across the world, and we have been receiving tremendous responses for Dum Ke Roat."

Another famous variety, ‘gur roat’, is seen at the Bakewell Cake House at Tolichowki. “Jaggery and kesar are added to the regular ingredients,” said Syed Maqbool of Bakewell Cake House

Dum Ke Roat gets its unique brown colour, crispy texture, and soft interior by baking, which requires a careful balance of time, temperature, and ingredients. Tried and loved all year round, this vegetarian delight is especially popular on Tenth Muharram, which is also known as 'Youm-e-Ashoora', the day the customary 'Bibi-ka-Alam' procession marches from Bibi-a-Alawa in Dabeerpura to Chaderghat. A delicious cookie with a rich, fudgy texture and a great combination of tastes is called dum ke roat. Ingredients like semolina, saffron, pure ghee, raisins, and nuts are used to make it.

Dum Ke Roat's roots are in a cause worthy of admiration. The reason behind its creation was to pay tribute to the valiant warriors who fought through hunger and thirst throughout wartime. Aiming to convey a sense of connection to that historical moment and the sacrifices made, the producers of this particular treat designed it to be carried for days, much like hard bread. Dum Ke Roat is well worth the wait, even with its preparation time and effort. With their wonderful crunch and freshly baked flavour, these cookies will melt in your mouth and leave you wanting more.

It is a reminder of Hyderabad's rich culinary history and the enduring customs that unite people throughout the holy month of Muharram as the city celebrates the return of this cherished dish. Late in 2019, Hyderabad—which is well-known for its own culinary culture—was included in the UNESCO network of creative cities in the gastronomy category.

“Gastronomy acts as a catalyst by providing direct and indirect livelihood to about 12% of the city's working population and further creating strong cohesive networks between people from varied religions, regions, castes, class and gender," the GHMC said.