From Shade-Grown to Sun-Dried: India's Unique Coffee Practices

As a fourth-generation coffee grower from Chikmagalur, I’ve seen India’s coffee sector transform. Early on, the only way to sell coffee was through the Coffee Board, which meant surrendering the entire crop and losing its unique identity. That changed in the 1990s when Indian coffee began gaining global recognition for its quality. Today, our beans are acknowledged for their high standards, commanding premiums over those from other nations. The 2023 World Coffee Conference in Bengaluru, attended by over 20,000 visitors from 80 countries, underscored this recognition. IICF 2024 aims to build on this success by connecting India’s coffee industry with the global community. As President of the Specialty Coffee Association of India (SCAI), we are committed to hosting IICF for the next decade.

Major challenges like climate change and rising labor costs are pushing Indian coffee growers to innovate. While mechanisation can help reduce labor needs, India’s terrain presents difficulties in implementing these systems on a large scale. The IICF plays an important role in bridging this gap by enabling producers to connect directly with the market, giving roasters and traders (B2B) a firsthand look at the quality of Indian coffee. IICF also introduces premium Indian coffee to a broader audience, encouraging a coffee culture domestically by hosting events across major cities.

The Specialty Coffee Association of India (SCAI) is an inclusive organisation representing India’s coffee value chain—from growers to cafes. Over time, SCAI has helped Indian specialty coffee build a respected global presence, commanding premium prices in both domestic and international markets. Our mission at SCAI is to promote specialty coffee and foster partnerships within the coffee community worldwide. The IICF events support these goals, further establishing India as a key player in the global coffee industry.

Indian coffee stands out because it’s shade-grown, spring-washed, and sun-dried, thriving in biodiverse areas without disrupting local ecosystems. Sustainability is central to our philosophy, incorporating rainwater harvesting for irrigation and using organic manure from jungle trees. The IICF gives growers a platform to showcase their sustainable methods, while entrepreneurs can present innovations like biofertilisers and eco-friendly equipment. Educational programs at IICF will also underscore the importance of environmentally conscious agricultural practices.

Indian specialty coffee has successfully established a niche in international markets, often fetching premium prices. This achievement is the result of hard work by SCAI members who have traveled extensively to build Indian coffee’s reputation globally. However, rising production costs and climate challenges require growers to secure even better prices to stay sustainable. IICF 2024 provides a venue for exporters to connect with potential buyers, strengthening India’s market presence and enhancing demand.

Indian coffee processing has made significant strides, embracing techniques such as barrel-aging, using in-house yeasts to bring out unique flavours, and incorporating local ingredients like bananas and oranges in fermentation. At our own estate, we’re among the first to apply these methods to Robusta coffee, shifting perceptions about its flavour. India now offers a range of coffee products, including pod machines, frozen espresso capsules, and ready-to-drink varieties. IICF serves as a hub where coffee enthusiasts can explore these innovations and where estates can forge partnerships with manufacturers, broadening the reach of Indian coffee.

Inspired by the wine and alcohol industries, SCAI has introduced national competitions to elevate Indian coffee, such as:

National Barista Championship

National Latte Art Championship

National Brewers Cup Championship

Coffee In Good Spirits Championship

World Filter Coffee Championship

These competitions attract young talent, including home brewers, providing the next generation with opportunities to showcase their skills and raise awareness of Indian coffee. SCAI is committed to creating learning opportunities across the industry, promoting a deep understanding of specialty coffee production and marketing.