Come Ramzan and Hyderabad’s Old City area bears no resemblance to its name. The area surrounding the Charminar is decked with colourful lights and over a thousand stalls selling everything from fruits to jewellery. What’s more, these stalls have police permission to remain open nearly round-the-clock.
“People come here at night to enjoy themselves after namaz. In the daytime, they are caught up with their jobs, plus it is summer and it is very hot,” says Syed Ibrahim Hussain.
For many people, visits to the Charminar area during Ramzan are an annual tradition. “We visit this place every year. The shops are now open for longer and the roads have been improved,” say Deepshika Ghosh. And they’re not wrong; there’s something addictive about the place. The colourful atmosphere is abuzz with the sound of street vendors attempting to entice customers to peruse their wares.
Midnight shoppers browsing through various wares bangles to topis
Shop owners say that the trends of yore are making a comeback. “People are in love with the kharara, a 50-year-old pattern that has come into fashion again. The demand for designer-wear increases during this season. We keep our store open 24/7, and business is really good,” says, Mohammad Asif, the owner of a store in Lad Bazaar.
Others make the most of the countless food stalls set up in the area. From mouth-watering dosas, chat and pav bhaji to haleem, kebabs and gulab jamun you name it and it’s there. Contrary to popular belief, several Muslims break their fast with vegetarian foods. The aromas of the delicacies waft through the streets mixed with the fragrance of ittars, tantalise the senses of passers-by.
“This is my first visit to the Charminar during Ramzan. It’s a different world altogether. There is so much life over here! I would love to come back every Ramzan season,” says Abhishek Ghosh.
And it’s not just the locals the area attracts people from all over the world. One couple has come all the way from Canada especially to witness the festivities. “We have come here from Canada especially to shop for our wedding and to eat haleem. To see such a big crowd past midnight is just amazing. We don’t get to see this anywhere but here,” raves Madhur S.
