A fine piece of jewellery can make heads turn. Indian jewellery designers have made their glittering presence felt on a global stage. Today, the desi jewellery designers are shining on the international scene with their beautiful creations being adorned by royalty and Hollywood celebrities. Recently at the 77th Cannes Film Festival, the world watched in awe legendary actor Meryl Streep’s stunning pendant earrings designed by Hanut Singh, a celebrated Indian jewellery designer and prince of the erstwhile Kapurthala princely state. Small wonder that the Indian jewellery market is a booming industry and one of the largest markets globally. Due to technological advancements and a rich history of fine workmanship the precious jewellery designed by Indian designers is attracting buyers from all over the world.
Captivating Hearts
The art of jewellery-making in India is known for its techniques such as Kundan, Minakari, Jadau, enamelling, and the use of various gemstones and diamonds. Global buyers are attracted to modern and lightweight jewellery options. The gems and jewellery industry in India has evolved and caters to the changing global trends. The designers are incorporating innovative designs and materials to appeal to a global customer. They are leveraging digital platforms to showcase their products and reach out to customers abroad. Celebrities like Beyonce, Meryl Streep, Jennifer Lopez, Taylor Swift, Nick Jonas, Rihanna and others have adorned themselves with exquisite jewellery crafted by Indian artisans.
Renowned Delhi-based designer, Archana Aggarwal feels this shift signifies not only the mastery of Indian designers in creating stunning jewellery for the global market but also their prowess in marketing their creations to resonate with international stars. The allure of Indian jewellery designs to Hollywood luminaries can be attributed to the use of vibrant gemstones, craftsmanship, and a distinct aesthetic that sets Indian jewellery apart. The 'Made in India' brand has left a significant impact across various industries from Indian cuisine, and fashion to practices like Yoga. Archana says, “This newfound appreciation reflects India's current cultural renaissance and its ability to captivate global audiences. Indian gemstones have long been favoured by Western jewellery manufacturers and leading brands. The spotlight has now shifted towards designers who are garnering international acclaim. By blending traditional craftsmanship with modern technological advancements, designers are redefining the narrative around Indian jewellery, boosting designs to the forefront of the global jewellery industry.”
Making Headways
Modern Indian jewellery seamlessly blends traditional elements with contemporary aesthetics. Indian jewellery designers are now going beyond geographical boundaries. Ishu Datwani, founder of Anmol Jewellers, Mumbai says, “It feels surreal to see Indian jewellery designers making their mark on the global stage at prestigious events like the Oscars and Cannes. Especially when Hollywood celebrities wear Indian designs, it showcases the talent and creativity of Indian designers. India has some of the finest jewellery designers, yet many do not receive the exposure they deserve.” There is a misconception that Indian jewellery is only traditional, limiting its appeal to modern consumers. “Accessing global retail markets and establishing distribution networks can be difficult and costly. But we are making headways. Designers can get global recognition by collaborating with international designers and celebrities. Using social media and e-commerce can help reach audiences worldwide. Also, by participating in global events and showcasing designs at international jewellery shows,” adds Ishu, who has many clients from Bollywood.
Desi Design Demand
With global exposure and education, Indian designers are now combining traditional craftsmanship with innovative techniques, materials, and designs to create pieces that have global appeal. Designer Neha Khetan Singh who has experience with Chanel and Chloe, and a background from NIFT and MoD ‘Art International, Paris brings a fusion of European elegance and Indian heritage in her pieces. “There is a rising trend in fusion jewellery, seamlessly blending Indian heritage with minimalist aesthetics. For instance, the versatility of Indian Polki (uncut diamonds) jewellery, while traditionally adorned during weddings and festive occasions, is now embraced in minimalist forms for everyday wear, known as pret jewellery. This evolution showcases Indian designers’ commitment to preserving Indian heritage while adapting to modern tastes,” Neha explains.
Indian consumers perceive jewellery as integral to cultural identity and often prioritize sentimental value and generational significance, whereas international consumers prioritize functionality and styling. Indians cherish traditional designs steeped in heritage and cultural symbolism, favouring intricate craftsmanship, vibrant colours, and motifs inspired by mythology or nature. International consumers exhibit a more varied palette, ranging from minimalist contemporary styles to classic pieces. “Aesthetic inclinations differentiate preferences, with Indians favouring ornate, heavier jewellery for special occasions like weddings, while international consumers lean towards lighter, versatile pieces for daily wear or formal events,” says Neha.
However insufficient investment in marketing and branding, along with stereotypes of traditional design, hampers international recognition of Indian designers. “Limited access to distribution channels and pricing challenges add to the struggle. Indian jewellery brands must adapt designs to global tastes while preserving cultural identity, invest in modern infrastructure, and embrace digital sales. Collaborations, trade fair participation, and alliances with established brands offer avenues for global visibility,” states Neha.
Crown & Glory
• Hanut Singh, renowned Indian Jewellery designer and prince of the erstwhile Kapurthala princely state boasts of clients like Meryl Streep, Beyonce, Madonna, Nicole Kidman and Christian Louboutin.
• Suhani Parekh, label Misho has clients like Lady Gaga, Taylor Swift, Rihanna, Kim Kardashian, Kendall Jenner, Dua Lipa, and others. Actor Zendaya posted a photo wearing a pair of mismatched golden hoops by Misho Designs.
• Rihanna Wore a three-drop rubellite, tourmaline and diamond necklace from Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s High Jewellery with a ruby choker, crafted in 18k gold and rubies encrusted in diamonds from Manish Malhotra’s collection.
• Jennifer Lopez sported a Manish Malhotra necklace designed with 165-carat emeralds and yellow diamonds for the premiere of Atlas.
• Anita Dogra’s jewellery has been adorned by Beyonce at Isha Ambani’s pre-wedding celebrations. Beyonce wore chandelier earrings, a crystal and stone-based haathphool and mathapatti.
• Payal Shah, L’ Dezen label has designed for Jennifer Lopez, Sofia Vergara, Chrissy Teigen and Katy Perry. Lady Gaga was seen at the Golden Globes in pieces by Payal and Nick Jonas wore a bracelet designed by Payal.
• Amrapali Design has clients such as Halle Berry, Freida Pinto, Jennifer Lopez, Angelina Jolie, Penelope Cruz, Rihanna etc. Amrapali's creations have been seen in movies like Troy and The Second-Best Exotic Marigold Hotel.
• Harakh Mehta, a Mumbai diamantaire has created jewellery for Kayla Rockefeller; Chinese actor Jet Li's daughter Jane and Jimmy Choo co-founder Tamara Mellon's daughter Araminta.
• Queenie Singh’s jewellery has been worn by Hillary Clinton, the Queen of Morocco, Kim Kardashian, Jade Jagger, Lindsay Lohan and Paris Hilton.
By blending traditional craftsmanship with modern technological advancements, designers are redefining the narrative around Indian jewellery.” — Archana Aggarwal, designer, New Delhi
There is a rising trend in fusion jewellery, seamlessly blending Indian heritage with minimalist aesthetics." — Neha Khetan Singh, Designer
It feels surreal to see Indian jewellery designers making their mark on the global stage at prestigious events like the Oscars and Cannes.” — Ishu Datwani, founder, Anmol Jewellers, Mumbai
