May Day in Madrid was truly inspirational. Be it the spiffily dressed officers — army, police and traffic — or the innumerable happy Spanish folk of all ages, especially the crinkly smiley old men who even offer you a churro! Called Los Mayos, the preppy officers, and the Army, all marched as the crowd cheered. Some officers even posed with enthusiastic (sic) tourists from India! Then, a plane vroomed high above, and three parachuting officers jumped out, with the Espana flag flying high, and after much cheer, they landed perfectly right in front of the King and Queen to celebrate May Day.
The Flamenco and Villa Rosa
But if it’s history you like, then this land that was once ruled by the Moors, stops you in your tracks to mull over the past. Did you know that the term “Ola” originates from “Yallah” of Arabic origin? The Spanish Inquisition and its stories of angst, our tour took us through turmoil, where even children were spies (informally) to see if a family was eating pork. The guide even asked a few of us to be “kings” for the day, to explain Spain’s royal lineage and preoccupation with the names Carlos and Phillip (most kings were named either!).
Yet, a true peek into Espana folklore is the revetting Flamenco — it inspires, energises, enthrals and bewitches. The show at Villa Rosa was recommended by our hospitable maitre de. In the Puerto Del Sol area of Madrid, its quaint azulejo caricatured wall invites you in. I was quiet a long time after, still revelling in the beauty. Some shows also offer a three-course meal. The first striking notes of the Spanish guitar by a Spanish musician, and we were entranced. There is something truly poignant in the notes that wafted through. When he began to strum, we were transported. And this was just the start. The Flamenco started with the most frenetic tap dancing and energy, which left us breathless. Three dancers and a singer crooned as the story rife with angst, love and yearning was told (we think!). The dancing — phew! Gravity defying, frenetic in extempore bursts, it will stay in our memory as among the most heart-stopping performances.
El Rastro
There are several bars and nightclubs in this Soho-like area of Madrid, and you can ask for Una canya per favor, Canya con limon (beer or beer with lemon). For complete gastronomy, head to La Latina and taste the hueves rottos that Café Lucio serves, or the tapas trail along the quarter. Some bars offer free tapas, so ask and you shall receive!
Staying at the Casual Madrid del Teatro was perfect, a beautiful place, where each room was fashioned after a European theatre, mine was the theatre from Prague. It’s a walk to Sol, Plaza Mayor, and a long tread to the Cathedral and Palace.
The Argentinian restaurant La Cabana Argentina served some absolutely succulent portions of meat, with the most delectable dip with bread. Do get to the Mercato de San Miguel and spend an evening walking through food hawkers, with a drink in hand, as you munch on a kalamari sandwich which Madrid is famous for, or crunch on some fried shrimp. It’s a sight to behold for a foodie, where you can taste fresh tapas, have octopus with seasalt or slurp on mussels, In fact, its seafood and sushi stalls are fabulous. And what better way to have yourselves a feast, than holding a nice frozen Mojito, and buying wine and olives.
Nothing brings you closer to the heartbeat of Madrid than El Rastro, the flea market that everyone tumbles over each other to get to. Situated at one end of La Latina, just follow the crowd, and you are bang in the middle of stalls that store trinkets, clothes, kitchy accessories and lots more. It’s an interesting peek into the Sunday life of a Madrilenian. There are small corners where you can listen to music as guitarists do their “rocking” best. There is a historical antique chest of streets and shops surrounding El Rastro where you can pick up Spanish artefacts. And after you’ve had your fill, recoup at La Latina.
Visit the writers’ block and walk past the home of Cervantes, take a trip down history where these greats of Spanish prose lived and created. Smartly, we didn’t eat at a bar Ernest Hemingway ate at — this is a common ploy to lure tourists. Dinners at La Caserola instead, next to the hotel, with an affable owner and some great rottos again, and chorizo soup. Madrid is such a rich array of tastes and experiences quite like Spain itself, but there is something soulful in Madrid that endears it to a questioning soul.
Quick tips:
Buy a ten-trip metro cart, it costs about 12 euros.
Do a Sandman’s Tour
Visit Toledo, a day trip by train or bus
Buy some chorizo from the famed chorizo chain.
