Airlines are not known for Cordon bleu food, but it’s the breakfast menu that usually plumbs the depths of mediocrity. What should be the most important meal of the day is reduced to a mess of reheated mush, stripped of culinary soul. Passengers are subjected to rubbery eggs, insipid tarts and sad excuses for fruit, presented without care or imagination. There is no attempt to infuse regional flair, no respect for freshness, and certainly no consideration for the discerning palate. What is served is a betrayal of hospitality in the skies.
American comedian and actor Jerry Seinfeld once questioned the nature of airline food, ridiculing the Biscoff cookies provided during take-off and the reheated pasta served on trans-Atlantic flights. Closer home, Radhika Gupta, Managing Director of Edelweiss Mutual Fund, took to X to criticise airlines and packaged food industries for serving sandwiches on flights. She pointed out that India offers a range of breakfast choices much more nutritious than the sandwich.
“I am calling for an end to airlines and makers of boxed food who serve two pieces of bread stuffed with cheese and coleslaw (veg-sandwich) in the name of breakfast. This is India, not the West. We have amazing breakfast food from across the country — paranthas, idlis, dhoklas, and countless others — that is healthy, tasty, affordable, and has a shelf life. Our moms make amazing takeaway parantha rolls with leftover sabzis that taste fab. Please be creative. Spare us the sandwich. We can do better,” Radhika wrote.
Food or flight?
India’s airline catering service market, projected to grow from USD 183.99 million in 2024 to USD 341.41 million by 2029, is critical in shaping passenger experiences.
Only two airlines in the country provide complimentary meals — Air India and Vistara. The latter, however, has some conditions. They will serve meals only if the distance or the time exceeds a particular limit. Air India, on the other hand, will provide you with a meal even if it is a half-hour flight.
Earlier this year, the Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) issued a notice to the airline catering company TajSATS regarding the safety, hygiene and service of in-flight meals. It came after an Air India passenger claimed that he found a blade-like metal object in the food he was served while flying from Bengaluru to San Francisco.
Changing preferences
As for trends that may shape airline bills of fare going forward, Yukti Agrawal, Co-founder of Go Nuts, thinks plant-based and vegan options, locally sourced ingredients, healthy snacks, and innovative packaging solutions will be part of the future, in view of passengers’ growing demands for wellness, convenience, and culinary exploration. “Serving meals that reflect the uniqueness of different regions, airlines can cater to manifold preferences and give travellers a more faithful, local experience. Working with local chefs or food experts would make this even better. For regional breakfasts, I’d suggest a chatpata paneer salad or mild Amritsari paneer chunks as protein-rich healthy options. Other alternatives could be sattu or moong dal chilla instead of pancakes to give the fliers a true taste of the desi breakfast,” she says.
However, considering that paneer can be off-putting when not fresh and chilla needs to be served hot, the practicality of these breakfast suggestions can be questioned. “Methods like sous vide cooking, which locks in moisture and ensures that the dishes retain their integrity, could solve this problem. But again, sattu and the like may not appeal to everyone. Also, in-flight kitchens face limitations in preparation and reheating, which can affect the quality of such dishes,” points out Abhishek Gayen, Head Chef and Food expert at Azule of Aazulic Hospitality. He feels standard breakfast options like pancakes are more universally accepted and easier to prepare consistently. “One can serve a grilled veggie and hummus wrap or a quinoa salad that seal a lot of flavour, are light on the stomach, and easy to enjoy in a confined space. The key is to offer something fresh yet travel-friendly, with ingredients that hold up well at altitude,” he says.
Spicing it up with local favourites
“It is logical that even in an aircraft one would expect a wider choice for breakfast,” says Chef Nirvaan Thacker from Blue Tribe who feels that batata wada, pongal and soya kheema pav are great options. Raju Thapa, Head Chef at Mitron Cafe suggests a well-spiced vegetable quinoa salad. “Regional fare not only satisfies the taste buds but also enhances the travel experience. Introducing a Bombay sandwich or baked vegetable rolls could upgrade in-flight dining. These compact, easy-to-eat options are savoury, mess-free, and ideal for air travel,” he asserts.
