New designs for summers

The weave story never gets old. And in each retelling, something new is born. Untouched by trends that ebb and flow, weaves are timeless in appeal, and are classic expressions of creativity and style.

Ace designer Rajesh Pratap Singh has woven his SS ’14 tale around the charm of the ikat and explored the monochrome effect in varying shapes. Relying on geometric patterns, polka dots and colour blocking, the entire black and white look comes with shots of red.

When the focus is on weaves, ignoring the genius of Rahul Mishra is simply unthinkable. Imagine a woollen garment that has the distinction of qualifying as a summer wear. Rahul has managed this remarkable feat in the form of merino wool that broke the seasonal restriction.

On the other hand, designer Deepika Govind continues her exploration of developing modern designs while drawing a new story from the traditional vocabulary of Indian craft. “Natural silk, kota and mulmul fabrics are versatile and environment friendly. Infused with prints, delicate lace and patchwork, they achieve purity in luxury and sheer sensuality through flowy, layered and modern silhouette like dresses, tunics, wide-legged pants and sarees,” she says.

The fascination for all things woven is well documented in designer Gaurang Shah’s creations. In his pursuit of the unconventional, the designer is offering khadi in different shades. “It is a persistent challenge for the weavers. I motivate them to weave new intricate patterns that most people would not think of in khadi. The three-shuttle technique of weaving ensures varying tonal quality with the colours gradually moving from light to darker tones through the breadth of the fabric. Not just that, there is an effort to make khadi softer and easy to drape,” he says.

Gaurang’s International Weaves of India collection was recently showcased at the Berlin Eco Fashion Show. The aim is to blur the lines while keeping the essence intact, “My focus is on sustainable innovations that offer the best mélange of India and the west. And the experiment is taken to a new level by merging fine khadi with jamdani. Rest assured, the fusion weaves create a pretty picture in Indo-western attires and sarees too,” shares the designer.

Every time designer Neeru Kumar spins an artistic tale, it revolves around handlooms. “Weaves create textures, define and render the material in the most natural and authentic way,” she says. Her label Tulsi epitomises this thought process.

“The emphasis is on the use of crafts and natural material. We are using a lot of khadi, linen and cotton and also a combination of very fine cotton and silk. The silhouettes are as simple as possible to create an elegant yet strong look. Sensible and distinctive use of minimal embroidery and apt colours for the summer further accentuate the charm,” feels Neeru.