10 years in the making

Across the world, in the city that never sleeps, is an exhibition that critics have described as “Beautiful and sometimes heart-rending”. And it’s closer to home than you think, because it’s about Hyderabad and surrounding areas and for once, it wasn’t about the biryani. The exhibition Sultans of Deccan India: (1500-1700) Opulence and Fantasy, being held at New York’s prestigious Metropolitan Museum of Art, has been a journey of 10 long, tough years and required Navina Najat Haidar, curator at the Met’s Department of Islamic art, and Marika Sardar, associate curator, San Diego Museum of Art, to travel  across the globe in search of paintings and artefacts.

“Along the way, other projects and exhibitions were completed, but we kept working on this show in the background, really kicking into gear three years ago. There has never been an exhibition on the Deccani Sultans and that was part of the reason why we wanted to focus on this part of India. People might know about Indian sculptures and they have probably seen great Mughal masterpieces, but the Deccan is virtually unknown to outsiders,” said Marika, in an email interview.

With that mission, the curators set out with a determined plan. Their project took them to various parts of the world  small cities and towns, where Deccan art work was being safely kept.“Over 60 generous lenders sent works of art to the exhibition. Objects travelled from Qatar, Switzerland, Denmark, France and England to join the show, but those from India travelled the farthest,” said Marika Of those, the fish-shaped waterspout from Bijapur must have had the most arduous journey. It is made from a large and heavy block of stone that had only moved a few feet since it was made in the 17th century, until this year, when it traveled half way across the globe,” explained Marika. Bijapur’s gems were plenty, from art work to manuscripts and gilded metal, incense stick holders, daggers and coins.

Making this exhibition extra special for the Golconda region are the rather spectacular pieces of art and jewellery that now lie scattered across the globe. “Deccani court traditions — examples of armour, metal vessels with arrangements of calligraphy are all part of the show... and of course there are some stunning diamonds as well,” said Marika. From the famous ‘Agra’ Diamond and the Idol’s Eye, a diamond that was later set into a Harry Winston necklace, to  the Kalamkari works and an illustrated manuscript of “A Parrot Perched on a Mango Tree...” that was sourced from Hyderabad’s Jagdish and Kamla Mittal Museum of Indian Art. The exhibition is literally a mine of exquisite art. And no, none of this was easy to procure.

“Over the course of the last decade, we spent several months in Hyderabad doing research on various levels. We visited buildings and architectural sites throughout the city and surrounding areas, we researched in  archives and at the Archaeological Survey of India, we worked in museums such as the AP State Museum and the Salar Jung Museum,” said Marika, while adding, “Oh and yes, we also spent plenty of time eating excellent Hyderabadi food!”

The detailing in most of the works are beyond stunning. Take for instance, the largest Kalamkari on display here, “It is a spectacular, special commission that includes dozens of intriguing details. Not only are the Europeans and their meetings shown, but there are also lovely vignettes of local fisherman hauling in nets surrounded by mythical sea creatures,” explained Marika

Hyderabad has never had a dearth of art. Sadly not many are able to take care of art. And here is where the Metropolitan Museum of Art comes, “We signed a memorandum of understanding with the Indian government to collaborate for the next several years. This partnership includes professional exchanges, loans for major exhibitions and conservation. For the Indian museums who wanted the assistance, the Met provided conservation treatments for the objects in the exhibition and most of the paintings and books will be sent home with special mats and archival boxes made especially for them,” she said.

While the exhibition aims at showing the world a glimpse of the Deccani heritage, Marika said, “We are stuck in the past, when it comes to the art scene. What we were researching was all made between 500 and 300 years ago — so we haven’t even touched the contemporary artists — but in terms of historical works of art, Hyderabadi collections are blessed with incredible riches. The crowds at places like Salar Jung can be overwhelming, but at least that is a good sign of interest in Hyderabad’s abundant heritage.” The exhibition might be over 12,000 km away from Hyderabad, but if you have the money, the time and a passion for art, you must visit the Sultans of Deccan India: (1500-1700) Opulence and Fantasy which ends on July 26.