A close shave

Actress Eva Mendes claims that she frequently shaves her face. “My hair grows back if I get chills. Anyone else get that?” she posted on her Insta. The Hitch star drew some flak for her choice of words though. “I received a lot of comments … from women who’ve been shaving their face for years—ok I guess ‘dermaplaning’ is the preferred word but it is what it is and I LOVE it!” she shared. (According to experts, getting goose bumps/chills doesn’t just make hairs stand on end; it may also help hair grow.)

So, let’s take a look at dermaplaning, which many celebrities and influencers are raving about, claiming that it has revitalised their complexions.

Dermaplaning is a cosmetic procedure that involves gently scraping the skin’s surface with a sterile surgical scalpel to remove dead skin cells and fine hair (also known as peach fuzz).

“Dermaplaning exfoliates the skin by scalping the top layer of dead skin cells that cause blockage with the vellus hair. This allows skincare to penetrate deeper into the skin and improve its function, while also stimulating cells to produce more collagen and making the skin appear brighter,” explains Dr Priyanka Reddy, founder and chief dermatologist at DNA Skin Clinic.

Shaving your face can exfoliate your skin more thoroughly than typical scrubs or peels. “It gets rid of a layer of dead skin that would otherwise make the skin look dull as it stops light from reflecting off the skin. Also, eliminating facial hair may enable skincare products like serums and moisturisers to penetrate deeper, because facial hair can collect dirt and oil and act as a barrier to beauty products. You get a smoother base as a result, which makes applying makeup easier,” she explains.  

Dermaplaning Regret  

Dermaplaning can also risk irritation and breakouts.

Molly-Mae Hague, social media influencer and entrepreneur, blamed dermaplaning for giving her a “full beard.”

The 22-year-old Love Island star told fans on her YouTube channel that she had a procedure to remove the peach fuzz on her face, but it resulted in hair growing faster than before. “If you guys can see that I do have a little bit of a beard, we're not talking about it. I need to speak to you guys about my battle with dermaplaning — and I wish I never got dermaplaning. Basically I got into the habit of having a dermaplaning facial and my peach fuzz just grows back at rapid levels now,” she shared.

And Molly says hair regrowth isn’t the only side-effect she has experienced.
“My make-up artiste probably gets quite annoyed with me when I get my dermaplaning done too soon because the makeup doesn’t stick to your face when you’ve got literally no hair or texture on your skin, so it’s finding the balance. It can make your skin unbelievably smooth, but then actually you have to really keep up with it,” she said.

But Dr Priyanka feels, “it’s normal to have some stubble as your hair grows back in after dermaplaning.” This does not imply that your hair is thicker or coarser, she says, adding, “once the hair regrows, it will look and feel exactly the same as before.”

She feels the side-effects of dermaplaning are almost negligible. “This procedure when done right, can leave you with smoother and more even-looking skin. This will also help with better product penetration,” she asserts.

The dermatologist however, does have a word of caution – “While dermaplaning is generally a safe and non-invasive cosmetic procedure, there are some potential side effects that you should be aware of.”

Here are some issues to watch out for:

1. Redness and irritation: It is not uncommon to experience some degree of redness and irritation after dermaplaning, particularly if the procedure is performed too aggressively or if you have sensitive skin.

 2. Dryness and flakiness: Removing the top layer of dead skin cells can also cause the skin to become dry and flaky, more so if you have dry skin to begin with or do not nourish the skin well after the procedure.

3. Breakouts: In some cases, dermaplaning can trigger acne breakouts, especially if you are prone to this problem or if the procedure is not performed under sterile conditions.

4. Cuts, bleeds and bruising: It is common to experience cuts and bleeding after dermaplaning, if the procedure is performed too aggressively or by a poorly trained service provider. It is rare for these cuts to get infected.
             

5.Sun sensitivity: Dermaplaning can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so it is important to wear sunscreen and avoid prolonged / direct sun exposure immediately after the procedure.

“It is important to note that these side effects are generally mild and temporary, and will typically resolve on their own within a few days. However, if you experience persistent redness, swelling, or other signs of infection, you should contact your healthcare provider for further evaluation and treatment,” says Dr Priyanka.

Laser hair removal Vs. dermaplaning

Laser hair removal is more effective than waxing and shaving because it penetrates the skin and destroys the follicle, thus inhibiting hair growth. It is far more ‘permanent’ than waxing or shaving for hair removal. In some cases, hair grows extremely quickly. “For those with fine facial hair that cannot be shaved, laser toning/laser bleaching can be used to reduce fine hair over a few sessions. Trimming in between is recommended. Trimming is a more appropriate term than shaving. Dermaplaning exfoliates the skin on a daily basis, which can make it sensitive,” says Dr. Sonia Tekchandani, Celebrity Dermatologist and Founder of Tender Skin International.

How Often Should You Dermaplane?

For a smooth, radiant appearance, you can have this treatment every three to four weeks.