Sabha delights for the rasikas

Piping hot fragrant filter coffee, ghee-laden pongal, the crispiest of dosas made to perfection, mallipoo-adorned Tamil ladies in the loveliest of colourful pattu sarees, men in veshtis, and Carnatic tunes (sometimes highly catchy and refusing to leave your head soon) — these are the things one is greeted by when one pays a visit to any of the buzzing sabhas in the city during Margazhi.

Celebration of classical music and dance is the predominant aim of these sabhas, yet when south Indian foodies gather at a place, they can’t help but bring food into everything around. A round of sabha-hopping in the city opens one up to the food-loving land that Chennai, in particular, is — elaborate meals, allowing space for innovation, while still sticking to tradition. Here’s what this Margazhi thingal has to offer for your palate.

History on your plate
Anything that you might order at some of the historic caterer run canteens has an interesting story to tell. For instance, K Baskaran of the Meenambiga Caterers, who is running the canteen at Mylapore Fine Arts Club, is the third generation caterer taking the family business forward. From coconut sevai, to kozhukattai, to ghee rava pongal — all the recipes have been kept as close to what they were, during the time his grandfather ran the catering company, Baskaran says! The chutneys here are definitely to die for and would make you eat more just for them.

Serving traditions with a twist
While traditions are what this season aims to highlight, food doesn’t always need to stick to them — a little innovation can only make it better — this is what Mountbatten Mani Iyer Canteen has been doing over the years. Mountbatten Mani Iyer and his son Sreenivasan have been bringing in some of the most interesting fusions that the world has been talking about, in our very own rasams and dosas. This father-son duo’s famous watermelon rasam and vegetable payasam have been raved about for years now, and are still asked for. Be it chocolate dosas, banana dosas, or pineapple jalebis — this place definitely knows how to bring the best of different worlds together.

Hit by demonetisation
Unfortunately, the sabha canteens too have not been spared by the effects of demonetisation. The popular sight during the Margazhi season where people who aren’t really into music, visit these canteens only for the delicious food, no longer holds true. The number seems to have come down drastically due to the cash crunch, the caterers say. Rama Murthy of Sri Jayaraghavendhra Caterers has been in the business for around 16 years and has seen many Margazhi months till date. “There was a K.J. Yesudas concert recently and the hall was only half-full, which is a rarity when it comes to the performances of legends like him. The drop in audience has also affected the number of people we have at the canteens. The business is down by at least 50 per cent compared to the previous years,” he says.

While some canteens have made online payment options available, the rest say this year’s Margazhi rush has been very little compared to the earlier ones. Prices have also been slightly hiked across the canteens.

Healthy additions
To please the health-conscious music lovers, many canteens are serving millets and Indian super foods. The menus across the sabha canteens will now see ragi idiyapams, valaipoo vadais, ragi and red rice puttus and many more.

Gnanambiga caterers at Sri Thyaga Brahma Gana Sabha say such additions are the biggest hits. “Rather than the usual dishes, healthier ones like methi chapattis, valaipoo vadais, or keera vadais are selling like hot cakes,” says Nityanandam from the catering company.

When in doubt, do it the ellai sappadu way!
If you like your food uncomplicated and as close to being authentic as you can imagine, Mint Padmanabhan Catering Services is your answer. Head to the Music Academy, and straight into their canteen. Make sure you grab your seat by 11.30 am to beat the rush. This first access to their kalyana sappadu will guarantee you the hottest banana leaf meal with Tirupati laddoo, Bombay halwa, and some of the finest chutneys and kozhambus which vary each day. “On days when a well-known artiste is performing, our dishes are emptied faster than ever. So we prepare everything keeping that in mind too,” says N Padmanabhan, who has been running the service for 40 years now and plates some of the city’s best banana leaf meals.