In love with Hyderabad

Hyderabad’s extraordinary tryst with food dates back almost 500 years, to the Qutb Shahi Dynasty. However, in modern times, it is probably Mandaar Sukhtankar, the executive chef of a star hotel, who is making city foodies fall in love with the local cuisine all over again.  

From the time he moved to Hyderabad in 2009, Mandaar became the go-to chef for cravers of authentic Nizami cuisine. And now, even though he is moving on and is headed to Bengaluru, Chef Mandaar says that he will miss the city a lot. “I realised on my first day in Hyderabad that the people of the city were very warm. Of all the places that I have stayed in, I have to say that Hyderabad was the most amazing. I connected with everything instantaneously, starting from its cuisine and culture to its people,” he shares.

Apart from the cuisine, Mandaar also expresses his love for the local language. “I find Dakkani, or Hyderabadi, as some people know it, to be a very endearing language. It grows on you and puts a smile on your face. Also, the expressions that people use are really catchy. I think that is another strong cultural element of Hyderabad that you won’t find in any other city,” explains the chef.

Interestingly, although chef Mandaar’s mainstay is Italian cuisine, Hyderabadi food holds a special place in his heart. He is also famous for his experiments with the food of the Nizams. Ask him what makes Hyderabadi khana so special, and he is quick to explain, “The food of this city has been influenced by so many cuisines and that is what makes it special. Upon researching, I found that these influences vary from Persian, Turkish, and possibly even European, which can be seen in many dishes. So, that makes it all the more interesting.

“But having said that, with so many places opening up in the city for popular dishes like haleem and biryani, the quality of these dishes has definitely taken a hit. Also, there are many heirloom recipes that have been forgotten over the years.”

Chef Mandaar, who has authored the book Romancing the Chicks, adds that Hyderabad may have progressed by leaps and bounds, with people from different cultures and backgrounds becoming its integral part, but the locals still enjoy authentic Hyderabadi delicacies the most.

Talking about his love for writing, the award-winning chef says, “I enjoy writing. So, I guess it’s a matter of time before I settle down in my new job and pick my pen again to start writing,” Mandaar, notably, has written many interesting food articles for Deccan Chronicle as well.

Mentioning his new project, Mandaar says, “The project that I am working on demands my presence in Bengaluru. But, I would like to visit this city again and if possible, also open a few outlets of the business venture that I am working on.” So, it doesn’t seem like it’s goodbye after all!