Forgotten flavours

Some recipes have their origin in the culture of particular regions and communities in India and were passed on from generation to generation. But the fast pace of modern living and easy availability of packaged food mean that the younger generation is unlikely to take the time required to make these traditional dishes. As a result, many dishes that were once prepared regularly at homes have been forgotten, replaced by meals that can be readily made available.

Let us discuss three such recipes. Pathra vada is what comes to my mind first. Once a common preparation in the Konkan region, it was a speciality of Gouda Saraswat Brahmins, the main ingredient being colocasia leaves. I got the recipe from Sulochana Bai, who lives in Kochi’s Mattancheri and is the grandmother of one of my colleagues. When I tasted it at her house, I found it very interesting and found out how she makes it in her home.

It was Thankavel, a speciality chef, who introduced me to Irupuli Kuzhampu. He hails from Thirunelveli and brought it up when we had a chat on recipes which people used cook in their homes in olden days. In fact, it was his grandma who used to make this dish at his home. It gets its name ‘Irupuli’ from the two kinds of sour agents used to cook this ancient dish — curd and tamarind.

I had the opportunity to taste the delicious Idiyirachi Ulartihiyathu from Kalayanthani, a small town near Thodupuzha in Kerala where one of my friends, Binu Joseph, lives. It is a traditional recipe from Kerala’s high ranges which he agreed to share with me.
    — Kalesh is executive sous chef, Crowne Plaza, Kochi

Pathra Vada
Ingredients                                                  
Colocasia leaves     20
Par boiled rice    300 gm
Grated coconut    120 gm
Cumin seed    10 gm
Whole red chilli    4
Asafoetida    1/2 tsp
Turmeric powder    1/2 tsp
Star fruit (chopped)    50 gm
or tamarind
Salt    to taste
Jaggery    20 gm
 
Method
Wash the colocasia leaves and remove the veins from the leaf using a small knife and keep aside.
Soak the rice for two hours and grind along with the rest of the ingredients to a thick and smooth paste.
Take one colaocassia leaf, place it upside down on the table and apply a thin layer of ground mixture on that. Keep another leaf on top of that and apply the mixture and repeat the process for at least five leaves.
Fold the sides of the leaves towards the centre and then roll along the length of the leaves to make a layered roll.
Tie it with a banana leaf string to retain the shape and steam it in an idli vessel for 20 minutes.
Once it is done, take out and slice the rolls evenly and serve along with coconut oilbutter.

Pathra Vada

Idiyirachi ualrthiyathu (Stir-fried dry buffalo meat)
This recipe was popular in the high ranges of Kerala where people used to preserve and store buffalo meat in this unique way and made exotic dishes with it.

To make the dried buffalo meat (idiyirachi)
Marinate the meat pieces with salt, turmeric powder and crushed black pepper. Dry it in sunlight and smoke dry on an old style wood-fire kitchen till all the moisture get evaporated and the meat becomes hard and can be stored in air-tight containers. Prior to preparing the idiyirachi, the dried meat should be soaked in warm water and crushed using a mortar and pestle or on a grinding stone to break the meat into shreds.

Ingredients to make the Idiyirachiularthiyathu
Idiyirachi (soaked & shredded) 700 gm
Onion (sliced)    250 gm
Green chilli (sliced)    2
Ginger (chopped)    10 gm
Garlic (chopped)    15 gm
Curry leaves    2 sprigs
Turmeric powder    1/2 tsp
Chilli powder    3 tsp
Crushed pepper    2 tsp
Coriander powder    2 tsp
Garam masala powder    1 tsp    
Saunf powder    1/2 tsp
Salt    to taste
Coconut oil    50 ml

Method
Heat coconut oil in a thick bottom pan.
Add onions, green chillies, ginger, garlic and curry leaves and sauté till golden brown.
Add the chilli powder, coriander powder and turmeric powder and sauté for a while.
Add the crushed meat and mix well with the masala.
Make it dry and finish with garam masala powder, saunf powder and crushed pepper.

Irupuli Kuzhampu

Ingredients
Ash gourd    200 gm
Yellow pumpkin    200 gm
Ladies finger    150 gm
Tamarind    80 gm
Thick curd (should be sour)    150 ml
Grated coconut    120 gm
Whole red chillies    5
Channa dal    50 gm
Coriander seeds    20 gm
Fenugreek seeds    10 gm
Vegetable oil    50 ml
Mustard seeds    ½ tsp
Curry leaves    2 sprigs
Salt    to taste

Irupuli Kuzhampu

Method

Cut all the vegetables into ½ inch cubes and keep aside.
Soak the tamarind in water for half an hour and make the extract.
Heat half the oil in a frying pan and sauté the red chillies, channa dal, coriander seeds and fenugreek seeds for two minutes. Remove from fire, don’t let it burn. Grind together the roasted ingredients with grated coconut and curd to make a smooth paste.
Heat the rest of the oil in a small kadai, add the mustard seeds. When they crackle add curry leaves and the vegetables. Sauté for a while and add the tamarind extract and allow it to boil on a slow fire. Add the ground paste into that and cook till the vegetables are done and the gravy becomes thick. Season it well and serve hot.