Hyderabad’s famed ‘fast track’ record

The old city of Hyderabad is a potpourri of delectable delights and during Ramadan, this is elevated several notches higher. Here are some must-food experiences and stories connected to food that are bound to thrill your taste buds as well as your mind.

Old City Bites

Did you know that the famed Osmania Biscuits sold in Charminar originated at the Osmania hospital? And to set the record straight, it is not named after the last Nizam of Hyderabad, Mir Osman Ali Khan. It is said that an enterprising British warden wanted to give the patients at the hospital something with a combination of salt and sugar for them to recover; he gave them a biscuit that was served with tea every evening.

The canteen of the hospital also sold these biscuits and visitors started buying them and it became so popular that all cafes in the locality started retailing them.

Over time the name Osmania Hospital Biscuits became Osmania Biscuits, a story that is still unknown to many. Interestingly, these biscuits are perfect with the Zaffrani or saffron tea that is served in many cafes in the old city and is very sweet and thick, almost like a dessert. Hotel Nayab near Madina Circle serves this as a speciality and continues to attract a cult audience.

Iran Influences

Hyderabad has a strong connection with Persia and is over 400 years old and the Irani Chai of Hyderabad is nothing like what is served in Iran. The Irani tea served in Hyderabad has milk unlike in Iran. The tea is also different from what is served in Mumbai or Kolkata.

The first Irani café in Hyderabad was established at the Grand Hotel in Abids. The shops located in the corner junction of two streets did not find favour with the Hindus who believed it was not right as per Vastu and hence the Parsis bought out all the corner shops and started the business of bakeries and sold tea. As the institution was started by Parsis, they continue to be called so even though they have changed hands.

The cafes are a lesson in efficiency as there is one person who takes the order, and you pay before you leave at the counter before you exit. If you order six biscuits and you eat one, you are only charged for one and you can even divide the tea (share two cups of tea among five people).

These are inclusive methods and if there are no people waiting for a seat you can sit for however long you want. Likewise, anyone can sit next to you if the seat is vacant, as this is the culture that continues to date.

Irani cafes are not just business houses but are institutions. The armed revolution of Hyderabad and other political movements in the past have had their origins in Irani cafes too.

Persia Calling

The Paya Nihari at Shadab restaurant is well known, and this place is also known for its mutton biryani. Incidentally, the biryani is a hotly debated topic and conversation starter in the city and each person has their own opinion on where the best biryani is served.

The Kakatiyas ruled Hyderabad initially and then came the Tughlaqs, Bahamanis, Qutub Shahis, Mughals and the Nizams. Qutub Shahis were Shias who came from the Arabian Gulf directly to the Machipatnam coast.

The confluence of food is influenced by all these dynasties. Telangana incidentally has the highest percentage of non-vegetarians in the country. Influences from outside and what was present already give Hyderabad a cuisine of its own. The Dakhani version of the Mughlai dishes have their own flavour.

The Biryani however existed much before the Mughals came in from the 1500’s but they brought in many dishes from the Mughal kitchens. Kubani ka Meetha – a de facto sweet dish made of apricots from Kashmir is a Mughal influence from Afghanistan.

Hues of Haleem

Also, no mention of the food of the city can be complete with the iconic haleem, a mash of heat, lentils, and mutton with spices. It is a dish that exemplifies slow cooking, taking 12 hours to make.

Haleem is said to have evolved in the military camp of Aurangazeb in 1687 when he had an army of 30,000 people who had to be fed. They had a huge cauldron where meat, flour and spices were pounded by able-bodied men and this dish became convenient to feed the army.

This is when they started experimenting with local spices that were added to the Haleem and after several months of experimenting this is how the Hyderabad Haleem got its taste and flavour. Some restaurants call it Harees and Daleem and you can visit the place where it is made in the traditional manner on a wood fire.

Check out the kitchen by Pista House which makes about 2,000 kilograms of haleem each day in Ramadan.

Dash of Humour

The food stories of Hyderabad are also rooted in some mirth and fun. It is said that the sixth Nizam had a habit of making practical jokes and would go incognito and loved to prank people.

One such prank has to do with Chakna (made with goat intestines usually given at throwaway prices and given in some dargahs on Thursday) a poor man’s food. In the Nizam’s court there were a lot of people including many from extended noble families. One such person, a Nawab who was not very rich, was visited by the Nizam, unannounced, at his home.

The visit was impromptu and caught unawares the Nawab was apologetic that he could not offer him food fit for the king. Hence, he requested the Nawab to visit him again and he started preparing for the next visit of the Nizam making an array of dishes. Once the Nizam walked in, he asked the Nawab about the food and the latter said he could ask for anything. When the Nizam asked for Chakna, the Nawab was caught off guard as he did not expect it. But to his relief, the Nizam just laughed it off as a joke.

Much like the food here, there is a mix of history and taste that makes its way into its delectable plates. The food in Hyderabad is also a symbol of communal harmony.

Hyderabadiyat or the culture of Hyderabad is seen in the mutual respect of the different communities who live together in the city they call home. To cut the long story short -- the foundation of the state of Telangana indeed relates to food which makes it inextricably connected to the city of Hyderabad.

Quirky Bites

Osmania Biscuits sold in Charminar originated at the Osmania hospital

Hyderabadi Biryani: This is a much-debated topic with each person having an opinion of which is the best and original biryani served in Hyderabad.

Zaffrani (saffron tea) is served in many cafes in the old city of Hyderabad

Irani Cafes: Many armed revolutions of Hyderabad and other political movements have had their origins in Irani cafes.

Kubani ka Meetha – a de facto sweet dish made of apricots from Kashmir is a Mughal influence from Afghanistan.

Telangana incidentally has the highest percentage of non-vegetarians in the country.

Haleem is said to have evolved in the military camp of Aurangazeb in 1687 when he had an army of 30,000.