Bharat’s Timeless Fashion Influencer

Fashion in Indian politics has come a long way, but Pandit Nehru’s charisma, and classic style stand the test of time even today

Update: 2024-08-14 18:30 GMT
Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru, who served as India’s first Prime Minister from 1947 to 1964, was not just a statesman but also a style icon. His fashion choices were a blend of traditional Indian attire and Western influences, symbolising the confluence of cultures during India’s transition from colonial rule to independence. Perhaps the most iconic element of Nehru’s fashion statement ‘was’ and still ‘is’ the iconic “Nehru jacket.” (Image: DC)
Fashion is often seen as a reflection of personality, and in the world of politics, it can become a powerful tool for communication. India, with its rich history and diverse cultural tapestry, has witnessed the evolution of political fashion over decades. Among the key figures who have shaped this evolution are Jawaharlal Nehru, India’s first Prime Minister, and the current PM Narendra Modi. Both leaders, despite being from different eras, share a commonality in their fashion choices, yet each has used it to convey distinct messages. Renowned fashion designer cum filmmaker, Tom Ford once famously said: “Dressing well is a form of good manners.”
“I think Nehruji is an epitome when it comes to always presenting himself with utmost sophistication. One fondly remembers him through his crisp sherwanis, smart bandis, and the addition of the classic rose. His fashion is a testament to his ideological beliefs, national identity, and a timeless style that continues to influence fashion globally,” says artist and fashion designer Venkat Gaddam of Whencut Goddamn, Hyderabad.

Iconic Nehru Jacket

Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru, who served as India’s first Prime Minister from 1947 to 1964, was not just a statesman but also a style icon. His fashion choices were a blend of traditional Indian attire and Western influences, symbolising the confluence of cultures during India’s transition from colonial rule to independence. Perhaps the most iconic element of Nehru’s fashion statement ‘was’ and still ‘is’ the iconic “Nehru jacket.” This closed-neck, hip-length coat, often worn with a kurta, became synonymous with Nehru’s image.  The jacket was a modern interpretation of the achkan, a traditional North Indian garment, and its minimalist design with a stand-up collar made it distinct. The Nehru jacket was more than just clothing; it was a statement of India’s new identity. It represented a break from the colonial past while embracing a modern, forward-looking ethos.

Caps & Cultural Identity

Another key aspect of Nehru’s fashion sense was the Gandhi cap, which he often wore as a tribute to Mahatma Gandhi. This simple white cap was a symbol of the Indian independence movement and a statement of solidarity with the common man. “Nehru’s ability to use fashion as a form of political expression was unparalleled. His clothing choices were a visual representation of his ideals and aspirations for the country,” says Venkat. Nehru demonstrated that fashion, when intertwined with purpose, could be a powerful tool for conveying messages, building national identity, and leaving an indelible mark on history. “Nehru’s convergence of political gravitas and timeless style remains an inspiring example of how clothing can transcend its material purpose to become a symbol of deeper values and legacies,” says Venkat. This balance of tradition and modernity made Nehru a trendsetter in Indian political fashion. “When I see a politician or someone who represents the entire country, I want to see simple designs on them. Pandit Nehru is the epitome of class. His outfits, the linens, and the flow of the suits are just so crisp and beautiful. It looks like someone I can trust,” says Ganesh Rao, textile artist, Mumbai.
The Modi Kurta

Fast forward to the 21st century, and PM Modi has redefined political fashion in a way that resonates with Nehru’s style. One of the most recognizable elements of Modi’s wardrobe is the half-sleeved “Modi kurta.” It is both practical and stylish. The Modi kurta has become a symbol of his brand of governance — no-nonsense, and deeply connected to Indian culture. Modi has also embraced the Nehru jacket, though he has made it his own by pairing it with a variety of outfits, from traditional Indian attire to Western suits. By doing so, Modi has rejuvenated this classic piece, making it relevant for contemporary fashion while paying homage to Nehru’s legacy.
Modi’s penchant for wearing saffron, a colour associated with Hinduism and Indian spirituality, reflects his cultural and political affiliations. His choice of textiles, often handwoven and locally sourced, echoes Nehru’s advocacy for Indigenous crafts and industries.

Fashion & Politics

Jawaharlal Nehru and Narendra Modi, despite the decades and political ideologies that separate them, share a common understanding of the power of fashion in politics. Nehru’s style set the tone for Indian political fashion, blending tradition with modernity, while Modi has taken this legacy forward, adapting it to the contemporary context. Both leaders have used their fashion choices to project their vision for India, making a statement not just with their words, but with their attire.


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