The great Indian masala mayhem

This is not at all spicy. Spices from popular Indian brands MDH and Everest — whose multiple advertisements on TV made many Indian households stock them up in their kitchens — have suddenly turned into a recipe for disaster. Recently, Hong Kong’s food safety watchdog and Singapore banned four spice products from MDH and Everest (Madras Curry Powder, Mixed Masala Powder, and Sambhar Masala, and Everest’s Fish Curry Masala) after discovering that they contained a cancer-causing chemical, ethylene oxide, a pesticide classified as a carcinogen. It now turns out that since 2021, an average of 14.5% of the US shipments of MDH were rejected due to the presence of bacteria.

The Union Health Ministry says India has one of the stringent norms for minimising pesticide residues in food items. Following the ban of spices in Honk Kong and Singapore, the Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) has collected samples and sent them for testing. Even the Spices Board, which has five quality evaluation laboratories, has come out with detailed guidelines for exporters to prevent ethylene oxide contamination in products shipped from India. It says exporters will avoid the use of such chemicals as a sterilising agent and ensure that transporters, warehouses, packaging material suppliers do not use it at any stage.

Companies Deny Claims

Dismissing the allegations of ethylene oxide use, MDH has claimed that they do not use ethylene oxide at any stage of storing, processing or packing their spices. Everest too has denied it. The Delhi-based company, which is more than a 100-year-old, offers a range of over 60 blended and ground spices. Similarly, Everest, a 57-year-old company claims to be the largest manufacturer of pure and blended spices, exporting to over 80 countries.

What is Ethylene Oxide

Ethylene Oxide is used as a disinfectant for spices. However, it is known to have carcinogenic properties. According to the International Agency For Research on Cancer, ethylene oxide is a Group 1 carcinogenic. It says there is enough evidence to conclude that it can cause cancer in humans. “Ethylene oxide is used as a disinfectant or a sterilizing agent in many products especially packing salads, masalas or spices,” says Dr Prashanth N Suravajhala, Principal Scientist and Associate Professor at Amrita School of Biotechnology (Amrita University), Kerala.

He says while many manufacturers and exporters would avoid the use of EtO, there have been reports that certain masalas have failed surpassing the guidelines in Hong Kong and Singapore, making them ban the products.

Condiments

“The condiments obtained from these spices make them harmful if the allowance limit is not considered. Every country has its own acceptable allowance,” he informs. Drawing attention to the bioavailability of these condiments whence human consumption, Dr Prashanth says condiments contain chemicals, viz. Terpenes, phenols and alkaloids bring distinct flavours and aroma to the spices. For example, Capsaicin in chillies makes them hot, zingerone which is obtained from Ginger brings an aroma as in Tea or savouries or piperidine as in pepper gives the consumers the characteristic heat. “On why these compounds evoke similar physiological responses is the subject of medical terminology called “tachyphylaxis” meaning bringing an adverse effect to the drug dosage or the “killing effect of drug.”

Citing another example, he says piperine (an alkaloid present in black pepper) produces partial tachyphylaxis as averse to others making it induce severe tachyphylaxis. “It may be debatable that this depends on varied populations and is subject to bioavailability based on human consumption,” he explains. In conclusion, says Dr Prashanth, it may be argued that the chemicals in the condiments or spices help make a better taste but too much composition of this brings them a killing effect. “While it is ‘infect to disinfect’ for a healthy lifestyle, it may also be ‘disinfect to infect’ for rendering the drug less effective or tachyphylactic in people suffering with diseases,” he adds.

Spice Trail

According to the Spices Board of India, the country exports more than 200 spices and value-added products to about 180 countries, worth $4 billion. The exports include chilli powder, turmeric, cardamom, and cumin, among other spices. Countries like the US, China, UAE, Thailand, Hong Kong, Singapore, Australia,

UK, Malaysia and Bangladesh are among the biggest markets for Indian spices. The domestic market alone is worth about

$10 billion, which makes India the world's largest consumer of spices.

Kavitha Mantha, chief curator and owner of Sage Farm Cafe says MDH and Everest are brands that gained the trust of households across the world as more and more people are moving away from traditional processes of making spices at home. “If you look at the ingredients of any of these packaged spices, they appear clean and pure. This detected contamination, however, is a sign of contamination in the process which tells us that the list of ingredients is not the only important thing,” she says. It’s now more than ever, important to know where your produce comes from and how and who processes it, to ensure the safety and sanctity of what you eat, feels Kavitha.

Consumer Trust

Ajeet Godara, Co-founder, Natureland Organics feels companies (like MDH and Everest) are playing with consumer trust to push their products. “Spices are meant to enhance meals, yet they often harbour dangerous additives like ethylene oxide, posing serious health risks such as cancer. It’s high time for companies to exercise caution and opt for ingredients that promote our well-being. In this landscape, transparency is the key,” he feels. The Centre has asked all the state governments to conduct quality tests of products available in local markets to check if spices available in India are safe to use.

Avijit Singh, owner of The House of Rohet says to ensure the best quality spices, he has included the locals to become a part of his hospitality group who make sure he gets the best produce. “We have always believed in the power of indigenous ingredients when it comes to our kitchen. Across our properties, we have sourced the spices from its region, created a supply chain, and ground them freshly every week to ensure the taste does not get compromised,” he says.

Spicy Notes

India exports more than 200 spices and value-added products to about 180 countries, worth $4 billion.

Chilli powder, turmeric, cardamom, cumin, among other spices are exported.

The US, China, UAE, Thailand, Hong Kong, Singapore, Australia, UK, Malaysia and Bangladesh are among the biggest markets for Indian spices

India is the world’s largest consumer of spices

India’s domestic spice market is worth about $10 billion

Ethylene oxide is used as a disinfectant or a sterilizing agent in many products especially packing salads, masalas or spices.” — Dr Prashanth N Suravajhala,

Principal Scientist and Associate Professor, (Amrita University)

On Wednesday, New Zealand's food safety regulator said it is investigating possible contamination in the spice products of top Indian brands MDH and Everest after they faced scrutiny in other countries.

Spices are meant to enhance meals, yet they often harbour dangerous additives like ethylene oxide, posing serious health risks such as cancer.” — Ajeet Godara, director, Natureland Organics